Author

Audrey

A U D R E Y | LA girl living in Helsinki | Tech Marketer | Dance Machine | Ice Cream Connoisseur | American Filipina | Gratitude Practicer | Lover of Life ? | Long Distance Relationship Survivor | Rambo's Mom

FinlandTravel

Lapland Wonderland: Exploring Levi & Ylläs

by Audrey
written by Audrey

Even though 2020 felt like we all hit the pause button on life, it allowed me to slow down, reflect, and find beauty in my new-ish home, Finland. Although, I’m not so sure I can call it new anymore since it will be almost 2 years since I’ve moved here.

While it was really difficult not being able to travel back to LA this year (or anywhere else for that matter), it did allow me to explore Finland much more. And so far my favorite part of Finland to explore is Lapland. With over 100,000 km2 (38,000 sq mi) of area to cover, I’ve still barely scratched the surface, even after visiting there three times now.

I think when most people think about traveling to Finland, they picture glass igloos, fluffy snow, and reindeer. Well, what they’re picturing is Lapland! That or people confuse Finland with Norway or Sweden, like in the latest GM Superbowl commercial with Will Ferrell 😆

I first went to Lapland 2 years ago, before I actually moved to Helsinki. For my first trip, I adventured to the iconic region of Rovaniemi. Since I already wrote about visiting Santa in Rovaniemi, I won’t write about that area in this post, but in case you are interested in visiting Rovaniemi, check out my previous post for some tips. For this post, I’m sharing my experiences and tips visiting the Levi and Ylläs areas.

A little geography lesson on Lapland

In case you’re not familiar with Lapland, it is the largest and northernmost region of Finland and its’ borders touch Norway, Sweden, and Russia. From Helsinki, it’s about a 9-hour train ride. The Arctic Circle crosses Lapland, which means if you go during the right times, you can catch polar phenomena such as the Midnight Sun and Polar Night. Whenever my friends send me a breathtaking Instagram photo or video of Finland, it’s usually from Lapland.

Because of its location, Lapland is sometimes considered as the interface between Russian and Nordic cultures. The indigenous people of Lapland are called the Sami, and they have inhabited the region for several thousand years.

Lapland Map | Lapland Holidays | Iglu Ski
Source: Iglu Ski

Levi, Lapland

I think everyone has missed traveling, but I’ve especially missed my girls’ trips with my besties back in LA. In fact, some of them had tickets to visit me in Helsinki this year, but COVID put a halt to that. So, for my 2nd trip to Lapland, I decided to rally a couple of the wonderful girlfriends I’ve made in Finland, and plan a girls’ trip to Levi.

We chose the Levi area for several reasons, but mainly:

  • Nearby airport that we could fly into
  • Well-known ski resort area
  • Close proximity to Ylläs National Park for hiking

We went to Levi in late September, which is not a really popular time to go because it was right after the leaves were turning, and too late for summer activities, but too early for skiing and other winter activities that Levi is known for. But, it was a good time to go during Covid times since it was practically empty everywhere, and also the rental prices were way cheaper than normal. We rented a 3 bedroom chalet, and only paid about €40 each for all 3 nights!

So what do you do in Levi during this time of year?

  • Downtown Levi – The downtown area is pretty small. There’s about a block of businesses, but you can get your karaoke, reindeer tacos, and bowling on.
  • Hike – The nearest trail to the downtown area is the Jääkausipolku “Ice Age Trail.” There are several other trails further out, but we didn’t have a car so we stuck to what was walkable.
  • Levi Ski Resort – Unfortunately because we were there during that in between time, the ski resort was closed so there was no skiing to be had, or my favorite part, the après-ski (“after ski” you know the after-party, drinks at the lodge)
  • Levi Spa – You can’t go anywhere in Finland without doing a proper sauna. The Levi Spa has that, plus an indoor water wonderland, water slide included.
  • Try traditional Lappish Food – We wanted to try traditional Lappish food and I can highly recommend the restaurant Saamen Kammi. The Sámi restaurant is in a Finnish kammi (hut covered with peat) and inside is an open fire where they cook up Finnish delicacies such as fish soup, salmon, and reindeer cooked in several ways. We definitely felt the Sámi hospitality and the best part of the experience was when the owner performed yoik (a Sámi form of singing).
  • Northern Lights hunting – There are tons of northern light tour options such as exploring via snowmobile, snowshoes, sled, cruise, canoe, or snowcat, but we decided to forego the tour and just try to chase them on foot (well with the help of a cab) — more about that below.
  • On top of the Levi Ski Resort hill
  • Making breakfast in our chalet
  • Saamen Kammi open-fire grill
  • Levi Spa

Northern lights in Lapland

The first time I went to Rovaniemi, Lapland, I just assumed I’d be able to see the Northern Lights on one of the three nights I was there. I downloaded the Aurora app to try and track them and the first 2 nights it said we had a “0% chance” of seeing them. The last night there was a 1% chance (so you’re saying there’s a chance 🤣), but alas no dice.

So when I went to Levi with the girls, I didn’t want to get my hopes up about catching the magical lights. We didn’t see anything on our first night because it was too cloudy, but the 2nd night, there was about a 20% chance. We went to a karaoke bar that night, and still no signs in the sky. But around 1 am, one of my friends was outside smoking and chatting with some Finns and they pointed out some hazy green lights in the sky. They told her it was the Northern Lights but that if we wanted to see it, we probably needed to drive out of the Levi center a bit where there was no light pollution.

So, she yanked us from the bar and we hopped in a cab and drove out into the middle of the forest, and BAM! There it was. We didn’t see a rainbow of hues, but we saw beautiful streaks of bright green lights dancing in the sky. It was more breathtaking and magical than I imagined it would be. These pictures don’t quite do them justice, but they still give you a glimpse into what we witnessed. This was definitely the highlight of our trip!

☀️ Levi summer & autumn activities

The best part about summer and early fall in Lapland is the “midnight sun.” If you’ve never experienced this, add it to your bucket list! Summer solstice (or Midsummer as it’s called in Finland) falls around the end of June. This is the longest day of the year when the sun never sets. Anyway, if you’re visiting Lapland around this time, here are a few ideas that we didn’t get to try:

  • Canoeing safari
  • Mountain and fat biking
  • Horseback riding
  • Camping
  • Smoke sauna
  • Visit reindeer and husky farms
  • White river rafting

❄️ Levi winter activities

While the days are endless in summer, the winters are the opposite. The sun pretty much disappears for a few months but in its place is an abundance of fluffy snow. And that snow brings light and makes the landscape much brighter. For me, this is the best reason to come to Lapland and try things like:

Ylläs, Lapland

Ylläs National Park in the fall

Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park (Ylläs for short) is Finland’s third-largest National Park. It’s about a 45-minute drive from Levi, so the girls and I took a day trip there to do some hiking. A fun fact about the park is that recent studies have shown that the air at Pallas is the cleanest in Europe!

There are tons of trails ranging from very easy to very difficult, so you can pick your poison. I loved the park so much that I went during my girls’ trip, and then again when I came back in the winter. We came about a week after the leaves started turning, but we were able to catch a glimpse of those beautiful fall colors or “ruska” in Finnish.

Ylläs National Park in the winter

And if the beautifully painted fall landscapes of Ylläs National Park were not beautiful enough, the dream-like snow made it look like an entirely new wonderland. For my 3rd trip to Lapland, Kimmo and I did a home exchange and worked remotely from a cottage in Ylläs for a week. I just had to take him back here.

Things to do in Ylläs

We recently discovered a home exchange service, so we were able to swap homes with someone in Ylläs, Lapland, which made the trip extra affordable. It was a beautiful cottage, and the perfect opportunity to take advantage of working remotely. Since I had to work during the day, we didn’t get to do too many activities, but honestly, I was perfectly happy just hanging out in the cozy cottage and a change of scenery from working fully remote.

Here are some things to do in Ylläs. Admittedly we didn’t get to do some of these since the ski resorts were not open for the season yet, but we did manage to try a few.

  • Lake Äkäaslompolo – Great spot for spotting the Northern Lights
  • Snowboarding or skiing at one of the Ylläs ski resorts
  • Cross country skiing at Ihmisen Rinki
  • Ride the Gondola lifts
  • Taiga for some after-ski drinks
  • Enjoy a spa day at the Lapland Hotel Saaga
  • Pakasaivo and the Kirkkopahta Seida Rock – the holy place of worship for the Sámi people
  • Konijänkkä animal farm – If you want to see reindeer up close and personal, this was a fantastic place. But you will see them roaming all around, so beware, reindeer crossing is a real thing here!
  • Our cottage for the week
  • My remote workstation
  • Hiking
  • Rambo loved the snow, too!
  • At the Hotel Saaga spa resort
  • Warming up in a tipi
  • Konijänkkä animal farm

Being from LA, there’s an entire world of winter sports that I’ve never experienced or even heard of. Things like snowshoeing, long-distance ice skating, skinning, ice karting, and the craziest one of all, biathlon (look it up!). I mean I’ve heard of cross-country skiing, but I didn’t know it differed from downhill skiing and that there are loads of different types of skis.

In any case I had a bunch of winter firsts this trip:

  • Sledding
  • Making snow angels
  • Snowball fights
  • Clearing snow off of a car 🤪

I still haven’t stayed in one of those dreamy glass igloos or snow castle hotels, but I guess that means I’ll just have to take another trip to Lapland. This time even further north! Stay tuned!

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Helsinki

The Corona Bubble in Finland and Dealing with Being Homesick

by Audrey
written by Audrey

If you’re like me, you probably have reader’s fatigue when it comes to articles and blog posts about COVID-19. I also write marketing content for a living, and every one of my clients has requested me to write about the topic for them as well. But, no matter how many articles I read (or write), I can only truly know what it’s like in my own city. Since Finland is a pretty small and obscure country in comparison to the rest of the world, I wanted to share what corona in Finland has been like. I’ve had a lot of friends and family comment on how “lucky I am to be in Finland.” And they’re absolutely right. While I’m super grateful to be here, it has also been difficult watching the situation back home in LA from afar. It has stirred up all kinds of emotions on top of being homesick.

Coronavirus in Finland vs California

First, let’s get the factual stuff out of the way. Here’s a comparison of the cases in Finland vs. California. Just keep in mind that the population of California (41 million) is much larger than Finland (5.5 million).

Source: Google

As you can see, there are much fewer cases here, even relative to the population size. The cases have been steadily declining and when the government granted the re-opening of restaurants and businesses back in June, there weren’t any major surges. In fact, there was a day in July when there were 0 new cases reported.

In comparison to the rest of the world, Finland is considered one of the few “safe” countries to travel to. Here’s a map from the Finnish Department of Health and Welfare which depicts a traffic light model that helps to assess the risk of corona infection associated with traveling abroad. Apologies it’s only available in Finnish, but here’s what the colors mean:

  • Green: The incidence of COVID-19 is below the government-set threshold, less than 8-10 cases per 100,000 people per 14 days. Finland falls into this category.
  • Orange: The incidence of COVID-19 exceeds the limit set by the government. The incidence is 10-25 cases per 100,000 inhabitants per 14 days.
  • Red: The incidence of COVID-19 is very high, with more than 25 cases per 100,000 population per 14 days.
Source: Finland Department of Health and Welfare

COVID-19 government actions in Finland

Quarantining in Helsinki started in March. The government made an official announcement on TV recommending that everyone stay home and only leave when necessary. I can’t say for sure, but whenever there was a televised government announcement, it seemed like most people tune in and listen to any instructions. I really get the sense that the citizens here trust in their government and follow the rules. It’s also pretty rad that our Prime Minister is a 34-year-old woman, the youngest PM in the world. Not to mention her coalition government was formed with all five party leaders being women – the majority being under 40-years of age.

Luckily at my job, most people were already working remotely a few days a week, so we had the resources and infrastructure to start working fully remotely. I think the difficulties of working remotely transcends across the globe, so I won’t go into that. But let’s just say working on a laptop from a kitchen table caused a lot of stiff necks and unnecessary trips to the fridge. 🍩

Fun fact: Finland has had the biggest shift to telecommuting of any European Union country during the coronavirus pandemic with over 75% of the population working remotely.

The strict quarantining ended around May, but restaurants and bars didn’t really open back up until June. For the most part, people stayed at home, and there weren’t any protests about it. If you talk to people living here, I think we can all agree that the government has done a great job reacting quickly and Finns in turn have done their part to follow their recommendations. It seems as if we were able to suffocate the disease and contain it for now.

If you look back at the Google image of the cases in Finland, you can see that there was a slight increase in cases in August, but again the government reacted quickly and made a recommendation for people to start wearing masks on public transportation and in any crowded indoor places. While it’s not required, I noticed the day after this announcement, many people were wearing masks throughout the city. By the way, if you’re in Helsinki and need one, I got mine at 1981 Helsinki. They make custom ones that fit really well!

Just yesterday, the Finnish Institute for Health and Welfare (THL) released a contact tracing app called Koronavilkku. The app utilizes Bluetooth in peoples’ cell phones to help you find out whether you may have been exposed to coronavirus. If you have a coronavirus test and are diagnosed as infected, you can use the app to share this anonymously with those you have been in close contact with. In just one day, the app was already downloaded 1.4 million times. That’s like 25% of Finland’s population! 😲

I’m continually impressed with the way things are handled here and for the most part, I feel safe.

Quarantining in Helsinki

Starting in March, I stayed home for about 2 months straight without really seeing anyone. I know this was tough for everyone around the world, but it did make for a lot of quality time with my 11 year old Frenchie and tons of interesting activities at home like:

  • airbnb online experiences ✨
  • indoor picnics + lots of wine 🥂
  • zoom dance parties, game nights, and drinks with friends 💃🏽
  • virtual live yoga 🧘🏽‍♀️
  • building indoor forts ⛺️
  • streaming operas and broadway shows 🎶
  • houseparty games with friends 🎮
  • more wine 🍷
  • online courses: my faves were the Yale Science of Wellbeing and Ahref’s Blogging for Business 👩🏽‍🏫
  • plus much more that I can’t remember

Oh, and how can I forget all the socially-distanced outdoor activities like daily walks, hikes, and summer cottage trips. I also decided to pick up rollerblading again, which I haven’t done since I was a teenager!

Quarantining also helped me to connect more with my family and friends back home. Going through the same thing across the globe is such a unique experience that really connected us and made us closer. And for that, I’m grateful because timezones and busy lives can really get in the way when you’re living abroad.

By about May, people were allowed to gather in groups of 10 or less, so I started to have some socially distanced outdoor picnics with a few friends here and there. It’s just a bit tough to have outdoor picnics in Finland during this time of year because it’s still pretty damn cold, like I’m talking below-freezing cold. I think the jackets say it all here…

The summer bubble in Helsinki

As I mentioned earlier, once the government felt like we had the situation in control, businesses started opening back up in early June. At first, restaurants were allowed (not bars) to be open until 10 pm. After a couple of weeks of observation, and no surges in cases, bars were then allowed to be open until midnight. After a couple of weeks of that, the opening hours limitations were lifted, but there were still restrictions on building capacities and keeping tables two meters apart.

Slowly but surely, it started to feel “normal” in Helsinki. For a while, it almost felt like the disease didn’t exist here. Open-air parties started to become rampant along with restaurant and bar terraces popping up everywhere. The only issue is, summer is just about over here, and terrace season is only possible for a couple of months in Helsinki.

But I’m definitely not complaining, and can honestly say we had a beautiful summer here with a good amount of sunny, warm days. That’s a big deal around here because I’ve heard of frigid and rainy summers. It’s like the city becomes alive when it’s a sunny day, and everyone feels the need to be outside to savor any signs of warmth. Unlike in LA where you typically only see people tanning at beaches and pools, you can find Finns sunbathing in bikinis on a random patch of grass, as long as the sun is shining there. 👙

Since we couldn’t travel to other countries at the beginning of summer, many people took the opportunity to explore beyond Helsinki. My insta stories were filled with people camping and hiking all throughout Finland. It seemed as if people were falling in love with their own country. I felt like we were living in a bubble, able to see friends and go out to restaurants, bars, art museums, beer floats, and half-filled movie theaters.

There is speculation about a second wave hitting Finland, but now that the summer is over, and the hygge season is fast approaching, I think Finns will be naturally hibernating anyway 🥶. At least I spent a lot of time in my apartment last year during the cold and dark months, which means from about October through March!

Homesick

When I would share photos or stories of my summer whereabouts, I often got comments from friends and family in the U.S. about how lucky I am, and how horrid the situation is there. Sometimes it made me feel guilty about how good we have it in Finland. I think that from an outside perspective, it may look like I’m being irresponsible or perhaps throwing our situation in peoples’ faces but, I always followed the rules. For me, social media has become a way for me to keep up with the people I care about back home and stay in the know of what’s going on in LA. It’s also a way for me to share my life and provide a window into Helsinki.

When the world was quarantining and there were so many stories about people not being able to be with their loved ones during their last hours, it broke my heart. It also terrified me knowing that at any minute, it could be one of my loved ones, or even myself, and I wouldn’t be able to just rush back home. My youngest brother is a nurse, who lives with our parents, so you can imagine how frightening that is. It was and is still really tough, knowing I can’t easily be there.

I was supposed to go back home in May for my other brother’s wedding, but it got postponed because of corona. He has since rescheduled it to November, but it’s looking like that might not happen either. That means that I might not be able to go back home at all this year. Some of my best friends had also planned a big trip here in August to come to visit me, but that obviously needed to be canceled with the U.S. international travel restrictions. While I’m super grateful to be in Finland, I’m also really homesick. There’s nothing I’d like more than to be with my friends and family, especially when the holidays roll around.

The Black Lives Matter movement

On top of the pandemic and being homesick, everything going on with the BLM movement in the U.S. has been devastating to watch from afar. I’ve tried to get involved in ways that I can from Finland, but not being in the trenches and living in LA has made me feel detached. I can’t fully explain it, but I guess that’s why I’ve described it as living in a bubble. At first, I felt helpless, and that there wasn’t much I can do from here, but slowly I found ways to contribute.

The first thing was to get more educated about the movement in the U.S. and also learn about racism in Finland. On the surface level, Finland seems (and probably is) one of the most egalitarian countries, especially when you see a government filled with young, badass women. But, when you dig deeper and talk to black people in Finland, many can attest to the racism they’ve experienced here. One of my closest friends here is African-American and she has shared many stories of racism that she’s encountered.

According to the Being Black in the EU report, Finland is actually considered one of the most racist European countries. One thing to note though is that when it comes to trusting the police, Finland came on top. On a scale of 0 to 10, Finland trusted the police the most, rating their trust at 8.2 on the scale. The trust of law enforcement authorities was lowest in Austria, at 3.6 on the scale.

I’ve also had a couple of racist encounters. Both times it was older men assuming I was from Thailand. One man even tried talking to me in Thai. It’s always the same type of experience though whether I’m in Finland or any other country. I say I’m American, then get the question, “yeah but where are you from?” My response: I’m from the United States. 🙃

Another way I was able to get involved from Finland, was by joining the BLM protest and march here in Helsinki. It was pretty moving to see how many people showed up. Peaceful protestors of all ages and backgrounds were present at the event, which included speakers from local activist groups, academics, entrepreneurs, and artists. I had heard there was a BLM protest a couple of years back that had less than a 100 people, but this protest gathered thousands of people at Senate square.

Another important way to get involved was to make sure I vote for the U.S. presidential election. Luckily I’m able to submit an absentee ballot online from abroad. If you’re trying to vote from abroad, make sure you know the absentee voting process. In order to get your absentee ballot online, you need to first send in a Federal Post Card Application, every year you’re voting, well in advance.

A quick funny story about that… the application itself was easy, but boy did I go through some hoops. I was able to print the application, but there were specific instructions to print the mailing details directly on an envelope. You aren’t allowed to have any stickers or tape on the envelope, which means you can’t use labels. No big deal right? Wrong! FedEx and Kinkos do not exist here. I couldn’t find any similar print shops, so I went to the post office. The post office didn’t do printing, and when I asked where I could do such a thing they recommended a photo printing shop or the library. Well I went to both of those places, and neither of them could print directly on envelopes. I spent an entire day running around trying to figure out how to print on an envelope, which by the way I could only buy in packs of five. Eventually, I found someone with a home printer, which I was able to print the damn thing from.

While I continue to try and educate myself, it can be overwhelming trying to keep up with the flood of news and social media posts. I want to stay connected with what’s happening back home and share that with people living in Finland. And vice versa, share my experiences in Finland with Americans and other outsiders. I can’t pretend to know what it’s like living in LA during these times. And with all the fake or unverified news circulating around, I sometimes find it hard to use my voice because then I feel the imposter syndrome coming on. But I guess for now my strategy is to practice gratitude, be open to continually learn, and hold the people I love close. If you’re an American living abroad, I’d love to hear about your experiences too. 💖

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Helsinki

My Favorite Restaurants in Helsinki

by Audrey
written by Audrey

This quarantine life has hit so many businesses in what seems like a blink of the eye. Restaurants have been hit especially hard, which is why I’m doing what I can to support local restaurants and businesses. It has actually been beautiful to see communities come together and support each other. No matter how small you think your part is, every little act of kindness make a difference. I’m truly hopeful that the entire world will come out of this as more social and compassionate human beings. 💖

For now, I thought I’d reminisce about my favorite food spots in Helsinki until we can meet again.

Lunch Culture 🍽

Before I dive into my favorite lunch spots in Helsinki, I thought I’d share a bit about the differences in lunch culture between here and LA.

  • People actually go to lunch – The lunch culture in Helsinki is big. I never see people skip lunch and in fact, most people take their full lunch break, even if they decide to bring their own lunch to work. Back in LA, I would often skip lunch, or eat my lunch at my desk while I was working.
  • Meet up friends for lunch – Since Helsinki is pretty small, if you work anywhere near the city center, then it’s doesn’t take long to meet up people for lunch. This makes it really easy to stay connected with friends or have business/networking lunch meetings. There have been weeks where I had lunch with a different person each day.
  • Lunch card – Many businesses offer a lunch card benefit, which further encourages people to go out for lunch, especially with other colleagues. Your company basically pays 25% of your lunch up to €10.70. So basically free moneyyyy, why wouldn’t I take advantage?
  • Buffets galore – Buffets and salad bars are really common during lunch. Tons of restaurants either have a limited lunch menu with an accompanying salad bar or a full on buffet. They’re usually around that €10.70 lunch card price point. This has been a tough thing for me to get used to, because I have such a hard time with portion control. 🤦🏽‍♀️I often joke that I’m a 300 lbs (90 kg) man living in a 115lbs (52 kg) woman.
  • People don’t share food – When I started going to lunch with colleagues, I would ask if anyone wanted to share or split different dishes, and I got some weird looks. It’s not common for people to share food here. In Asian cuisine, we often eat family style, where we order several dishes and everyone shares. That’s how I grew up eating. Even in LA with my non-asian colleagues or friends, we often ordered different things and shared so that we could try several dishes. I’m just a lover of food, and I enjoy being able to try different things. Why order two of the same dish, when you can order two different ones?

Best Lunch Restaurants in Helsinki 🌮

Ok now that you how we do lunch in Helsinki, here’s where to go…

  • Vibami – Favorite Vietnamese spot. My go to dish is the Bun Thit Nuong.
  • Lie Mie – Vietnamese & Korean fusion. Shanghai Tacos are bomb diggity. Also, their lunch salad bar is 🔥.
  • Taqueria Lopez y Lopez – Favorite Mexican spot. Al pastor tacos. Enough said.
  • Xiao Mei Lin – Juicy soup dumplings and pan fried dumplings.
  • Red Koi Thai – Where I get my Pad Thai, Pad See Ew, and Panang Curry on.
  • Fat Ramen – Best ramen in Helsinki. This is in the Hietalahti Market Hall, which by the way you can’t go wrong at any of the restaurants in here. I’ve tried them all, and they all get my stamp of approval.
  • Bali Brunch – Hip and delicious Indonesian spot. Rendang plate is my jam.
  • Hoku – Hawaiian Japanese fusion restaurant. Everything is delicious, especially the chicken katsu and salmon teriyaki.
  • Social Burger – My favorite burger joint in Helsinki.
  • Kabuki – The closest I can get to good sushi and Japanese food.
  • Sandro – Middle Eastern & African cuisine. This is one of the lunch buffet spots, but I’m into it. There’s always such a colorful spread with lots of great healthy options.
  • Cargo – Really good vegetarian option. Their menu changes daily. I don’t know what they put in this yellow spread they have for their bread, but I just want to drink it.
  • Sandro
  • Lie Mie
  • Vibami
  • Bali Brunch
  • Taqueria Lopez y Lopez
  • Fat Ramen

Best Dinner Restaurants in Helsinki 🍝

  • Farang – Asian fusion restaurant. A dinner spot to splurge and do the wine pairings. Everything was fantastic.
  • The Bull & The Firm – Tapas style dishes that change seasonally and according to local ingredients available. They also have really good cocktails and natural wines.
  • Pur Pur – My first time trying Georgian food, and it didn’t disappoint. Khachapuri, Pelmeni, beef shashlik, and some Georgian red wine, yes please!
  • Shelter – I’ve been here twice now, and their food is quality, but really I’d just go there for their Finnish malt bread. Seriously, the best bread I’ve ever had, hands down! 🤩
  • Juuri – So far my favorite Finnish restaurant.
  • Via Tribunali – THE spot for Neapolitan pizza.
  • Korea House – The closest I can get to some Korean BBQ.
  • The Bull & The Firm
  • That malt bread at Shelter
  • Korea House
  • Pur Pur
  • Farang

Filipino Restaurants in Helsinki 🇵🇭

I never would have guessed that Helsinki would have a Filipino food scene, let alone five Filipino restaurants! I’ve tried almost all of them now, and even though most of them are more fusion or inspired, they’re all actually masarap (delicious)!

  • Platito – This is a Spanish Filipino tapas restaurant. I recommend getting the Filipinas and España platters so you can try the best of both cuisines.
  • Sentro – I was finally able to find my favorite Filipino dish here, sisig! Ugh, so good.
  • Kamalig – The most authentic of all the Filipino restaurants I’ve tried. They’ve got the most traditional dishes like adobo and sinigang. Just like home.
  • Pobre – If you’ve never tried Filipino food, this is the perfect place to try it out. Filipino inspired dishes that are approachable, and more importantly delicious!
  • Paisano – From the same people who started Pobre. It’s Filipino food with a twist and tapas style so you can try a variety. I also have to mention that the cocktails are superb!
  • Kainan – Ok so this is the one I haven’t tried yet. Also, it’s in Espoo not Helsinki. When I’ve asked other Filipinos here what they’re favorite Filipino restaurant is, I’ve been told Kainan is the place to go. I definitely need to make my way out here.
  • Platito
  • Sentro

Best Desserts in Helsinki 🍦

To be honest I haven’t explored the dessert scene in Helsinki that much yet, but here are a few must try places that I have ran across. I do have to mention that my favorite dessert is ice cream, and for some reason the artisan ice cream scene hasn’t landed here yet. That’s surprising because Finland is 4th in the world for countries that eat the most ice cream per capita. I haven’t ran into any good ice cream shops, just ice cream stands with basic ice cream flavors. There are a few specialty brands that you can find at the grocery stores, but no freshly made ice cream with intricate flavors like Salt & Straw and Ginger’s Ice Cream in LA.

  • Suklaakeisari – The best raw chocolate in all of Finland! Guilt-free and freaking delicious chocolate. They’re sold in several cafes around town, but you can order them directly online.
  • Kanniston Leipomo – Great coffee, and even better pastries! They also bake their own bread. You’ve got to try some traditional Finnish pulla.
  • Petiscaria – This is a Portuguese restaurant in the Hietalahti Market Hall, but I go there for their Pastel de Nata. My favorite pastry from Lisbon.
  • Brooklyn Cafe & Bakery – Best cupcakes in town from two sisters from Brooklyn. Red Velvet and Carrot Cake, need I say more?
  • Jätskiauto (Ice Cream Truck) – Yes, you’re reading that right. We have an ice cream truck that comes a couple times a month around our neighborhood, and they have these Toffeevene bars which are toffee flavored ice cream with a toffee sauce in a waffle boat. Bomb dot com.

Favorite Local Restaurants in Jätkäsaari 🏡

I live in the Jätkäsaari area of Helsinki, which is a pretty new area. There’s tons of construction going on, as it’s still being built out. Restaurants only started popping up in the last year or so. Since we’re in quarantine, and a lot of the restaurants in this area are quite new, I really want to do my part to help support the local restaurants and businesses. Since being in quarantine, I’ve been cooking dinners, but grabbing takeout or delivery lunches from the nearby restaurants. I’ve been trying a different one every day and so far these are my favorites.

  • Urbine – I really dig the living room vibe of this restaurant. Really cool decor and cafe-style food is good too. The menu changes daily, and right now they’re doing free deliveries when you order 2 or more items.
  • Malaga Bar – This was a great local bar that sometimes had live music. It’s also dog friendly, which is always a plus. Their pizettas are yummy!
  • Vacco – The Diavolo and Vacco pizzas were 👍🏽
  • Faro – I love going to this place during the summer because it’s along the canal and has a beautiful patio and view. Their portions are huge and the food is fresh. But, the real reason I go here is for Finnish pancakes on Thursdays. There’s a tradition in Finland that every Thursday, you have pea soup and pancakes. I’m not really a fan of the pea soup, but I can eat Finnish style pancakes all day. They’re much denser and sweeter than American pancakes, yum!
  • Vessel Burger – My local burger joint. My favorite is the Gorgeous Goat. They also have a Bistro restaurant next door, but I haven’t had the chance to try it yet.
  • Be My Guest – Cute little Vietnamese restaurant. The bread on their Banh Mi is legit.
  • Ismet – Kebab spot, which is my go-to for hangover or cheat days.

So those are my favorite restaurants in Helsinki that I’ve been able to try so far. There are so many more on my list to try, so look out for an updated list in the future. Until we can get back into the restaurants, let’s all try to support them however we can. Thanks for reading!

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Los Angeles

What I Miss about Los Angeles

by Audrey
written by Audrey

I recently went back home for a couple of weeks during the holidays. I haven’t been home since I moved to Helsinki in April, so I was eager to get back to LA, especially during the darkest part of the year in Finland. Now that I’ve been living in Helsinki for over half a year, I can tell you a few things I miss (and some I don’t) about LA.

The thing I miss the most are my friends and family. Starting about seven years ago, I started an annual girls Christmas party that we call “Holla Bae Soirée”. It started with five of my besties and each year grew to include more of our girl squad. I thought that this would be the first year I wouldn’t be able to organize it or join, but luckily I was able to continue the tradition.

Food

After my family and friends, it’s the food!! In my opinion, the best thing about Los Angeles is the diversity. The melting pot of people can definitely be seen in the food scene. We even have pockets of LA designated for certain cultures like Koreatown, Chinatown, Little Ethiopia, Little Armenia, Filipinotown etc. Don’t get me wrong, Helsinki has tons of amazing food, but there’s a few cuisines that I can’t get or the quality just doesn’t come close. Let me break it down for you:

Japanese Food:

Sushi – Yes there are tons of sushi restaurants in Helsinki, but the problem is the lack of variety. The options are usually salmon, some sort of white fish, and tuna if you’re lucky. I haven’t been able to find toro, albacore, yellowtail, sea bream, uni, blue crab, or spicy scallop sushi. So, one of my first stops in my LA food tour was my regular hand roll joint, Kazu Nori.

Other Japanese cuisine – I sometimes find elements of other Japanese cuisines at places like Kabuki in Helsinki, but I still haven’t found any dedicated Shabu Shabu, Japanese BBQ, Japanese curry, or Izakaya spots.

Boba: What coffee is to Finns, Boba is to Asians

Mexican food: $1 Taco Tuesdays, need I say more? Mexican food is pretty expensive in Helsinki, and I can’t seem to find some of my favorite traditional dishes like carne asada/al pastor/carnitas tacos and machaca/chorizo breakfast burritos.

Korean BBQ: So there are Korean restaurants in Helsinki, but no AYCE (All You Can Eat) for $25, where you can choose from a variety of cuts of meats and grill yourself at your own table.

Brunch: Brunch in Helsinki usually means a pricey buffet type spread. The spread usually involves salads, sandwich cold cuts, cheese, porridge, and fruits. Brunch in LA means you have the option to choose breakfast or lunch type foods, which usually involves eggs, waffles, or pancakes.

Weather

Obviously I miss the weather, especially the presence of the sun during winter, but one thing that surprised me is that on some days, Helsinki wasn’t that much colder than LA. The big difference is the drop in temperature between day and night in LA. On some days it reached all the way up to 75°F (23°C) but then at night dropped down to 44°F (7°C). Helsinki reached 44°F (7°C) on some days in December, but the temperature drop between day and night is usually only 3-6°F, compared to the 15-30°F drop in LA.

So while I was in LA I tried to soak up as much sun as possible. I realized what I miss the most about the weather is being able to hang out at the beach and rooftop bars to watch the sunset even in winter. I must have gone to at least four different rooftops around Downtown LA and Venice Beach and even took a boat out with some friends in Newport Beach.

Music

I’ve been fortunate enough to catch some big concerts in Helsinki like Lenny Kravitz and Ariana Grande, along with attending Flow Festival twice, but it’s not very often I get to see artists I’m familiar with. Helsinki isn’t a popular stop on big music tours unfortunately, but hopefully that will change in the future. I’m sure there’s a lot of great Finnish bands out there, but it’s tough when I can’t understand the language (yet).

That brings me to the LA music scene. On any given day, there’s usually a concert or broadway musical in town. There are also several music venues that have nightly performances by up and coming artists waiting to be discovered. On a brighter note, one of my favorite events for discovering new artists is Sofar Sounds, which has recently made its way to Helsinki. The only problem is that they rarely have shows, whereas in LA, there’s a Sofar Sounds show almost every day.

On New Year’s Eve, my friends and I went to Minimal Effort at the old Los Angeles Theater and saw several DJs perform, so I was happy to get my music and dancing fix. How gorgeous is this venue by the way? I can’t believe in my entire life living in LA, I had never been inside until recently!

Random Things

I couldn’t figure out a category for these next bits of LA that I miss, so I’m going to go with random things I miss.

  • Hulu (streaming service) – Some of my favorite shows like This Is Us, Grey’s Anatomy, and Broad City are on Hulu, and can’t be accessed in Finland. Disney Plus also just came out, which we can’t get in Finland. I checked it out though, and Baby Yoda is just as cute as all the hype!
  • Amazon Prime – 2 day delivery right to your doorstep. I did so much of my shopping on Amazon because of this. Out of batteries or moisturizer? Why go to the store, when it’s cheaper on Amazon, and gets delivered straight to you in 2 days. In Helsinki, we have to order through Amazon UK or Germany, and it takes longer than 2 days, and gets delivered to a kiosk that you’ll need to pick up from.
  • Trader Joe’s – My favorite grocery store that has their own line of everything and tons of delicious ready made meals. Speaking of everything, they invented the everything bagel seasoning, which I stocked up on when I came back to Helsinki, along with my favorite Mexican hot sauces (Cholula and Valentina).
  • Visual Voicemail – People don’t seem to really use voicemail in Finland. In fact, you need to pay extra for the service. But I always loved getting funny voicemails from my family and friends, and I lost all the ones I saved on my iPhone because they don’t have the visual voicemail service that we have in the US. You have to call a number to get your voicemail, so that voicemail feature on the iPhone doesn’t exist here.
  • Being able to read all the signs – I’m such a rule follower, but that makes it difficult in Finland when I can’t read any of the signs haha.
  • White Claw – Ok this is a new thing I just discovered when I went back home. It’s basically alcoholic seltzer water in a can. And it’s only 100 calories. So instead of beer or wine, people are drinking these and new brands have even started popping up. We need this in Finland stat!

What I Don’t Miss about LA

  • Driving & traffic – I thought I would miss my car and driving, but nope, I don’t at all. The public transportation system in Helsinki rocks.
  • Sheer massiveness – The vastness of LA makes it such a diverse city, but also impossible to meet people up if they’re on the other side of town.
  • LAX airport – It sucks. That’s it. Ok fine, a little more context. From the entrance of the airport, it took my parents over 30 minutes just to drive to my terminal because of the crazy traffic within the airport, and the terrible logistical design.
  • Homelessness – It only seems to be an increasing issue, especially in Downtown.
  • Tax not automatically added – When you see a price in Finland, it already includes tax, so there’s no guessing.
  • Tipping – Now that I live in a country where you don’t tip, it was hard going back to calculating that after every meal in LA.

So that’s what I miss about LA so far, I’ll be back again in May for my brother’s wedding and at that point it’ll be a year living in Helsinki. Let’s see how what other things I miss by that point…

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Audrey and Kimmo with Santa Claus
HelsinkiTravel

Is Santa from Finland?

by Audrey
written by Audrey

It’s officially the holiday season! I’ve already started jamming my Spotify Christmas playlists. Rambo also got his first Christmas Calendar from Kimmo’s parents, so that will be a new tradition. He gets a treat every day in December until the big day. How cute is this?

The history of Santa

If you ask a Finn, they’ll probably tell you that Santa is from a town called Korvatunturi in Lapland. I know when Kimmo told me this, I almost believed him. But as any good partner would do, I questioned him and googled the facts. Haha!

St Nicholas, the generous medieval Christian saint believed to be the inspiration behind the modern-day Santa Claus, was bishop of the small Roman town of Myra in the 4th Century in what is now Turkey. Turkey, what? Then where did the stories of snow, reindeer, and northern lights come from?

Before Christianity and Santa came to Finland in the Middle Ages, Finns celebrated a pagan mid-winter festival called Yule where men dressed as Nuuttipukki wandered from house to house, came in, and demanded food, especially booze. Nuuttipukki was a scary character (like Krampus) dressed in fur jackets, birch bark masks and horns. The Nuuttipukki were evil spirits; if they didn’t get what they wanted, they would make loud noises and scare children.

When St. Nick came along during the 1800s, his image blended with Nuuttipukki to create Joulupukki (‘Yule Goat’). Joulupukki handed out gifts instead of demanding them. Unlike Santa Claus who climbs down the chimney, Joulupukki would knock on the door and ask “Onko täällä kilttejä lapsia?” (“Are there any well-behaved children here?”). 

In November 2017,  Finland’s Ministry of Education and Culture approved Joulupukki (or Finnish Santa Claus tradition, as it is known today) to be included in the National Inventory of Living Heritage (part of Unesco). This was huge for Finland, and strengthened its position as the country where Santa Claus lives.

Source: http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20171221-does-santa-claus-come-from-finland

Visiting Santa in Lapland

Okay now that you got the history lesson, let’s talk about meeting Santa and real reindeer! I might be a little partial to the fat man because I was a huge fan as a kid,  so when Kimmo told me he was going to take me to Santa’s official home, I was pretty stoked. We visited two places in Rovaniemi last November, and I’ll give you the lowdown on both.

Santa’s Village

Santa’s Village is free to visit, but you pretty much have to pay for any activity you do there.

  • Picture with Santa – If you want your kiddos to meet the real Santa, the jolly man in the post office is as good as it gets. They take a high-quality video of your visit and he genuinely asks about you and what you wish for Christmas. When I went in 2018, I wished for Kimmo and I to finally be able to live together in the same country, and guess what? A few months later, Kimmo proposed to me and I got a job in Helsinki! The man made my Christmas wishes come true and I have a video from that day to remember it by =)
  • Real Reindeer – I just about freaked out when I got to see real reindeer doing sleigh rides! They’re adorable. The only thing disturbing was that there was a reindeer restaurant right next to it, so after you meet the reindeer, you can also eat reindeer. Santa should probably think about making these two things further apart from each other.
  • Husky Park – We didn’t actually go in here because we didn’t want to pay the extra entrance fees, but from what we could see when we peeked through the fence, there were tons of cute huskies excited to greet the guests.
  • Cross the Arctic Circle – The Arctic Circle is a circle of latitude that runs 66°33′45.9″ north of the Equator. It marks the southernmost latitude where the sun can stay continuously below or above the horizon for 24 hours – known as the Midnight Sun in the summer and the Polar Night (“Kaamos”) in the winter. In Rovaniemi, the Arctic Circle runs through Santa Claus Village, where it is clearly marked. You can even get a certificate confirming the feat.
  • Moomin Snowcastle – We didn’t get to see this because we went at the end of November, and there wasn’t enough snow yet. I would have loved to check this out though, so make sure you check what dates this is available.
The Arctic Circle
Audrey and Kimmo with the real Santa Claus
Reindeers in Santa Claus Village

Santa’s Park

Don’t let their cheesy website fool you, we actually enjoyed Santa’s Park more than Santa’s Village. You can think of it more like a theme park. Here are some highlights:

  • One ticket price to see everything
  • Ice Gallery – We wanted to visit the infamous Arctic Igloos, but you had to be a guest at the hotel to see them, so this was the next best thing!
  • Elf School – Yup, get your Elf Diploma!
  • Mrs. Gingerbread Bakery – Make your own gingerbread man or woman
  • Train Ride – Take a ride through Santa’s Workshop
Audrey and Kimmo in Santa's Park

Tips

  • Where to Stay – Hotels are pretty expensive. We stayed in an adorable Airbnb which was really affordable. 
  • Transportation 
    • Train – From Helsinki we took an overnight train that left around 9pm and arrived at 7am in the morning. If you have the time to kill, I recommend taking a morning train so that you can see the sites along the way. At night it’s pretty hard to see anything, but we didn’t want to waste an entire day traveling, so it was convenient for us to be able to sleep on the train and arrive there in the morning. We got a private room which had 2 bunk beds, bathroom, and shower even. 
    • Fly – We flew back to Helsinki through the Rovaniemi airport. This was a quick, easy, and cheap flight!
    • Santa Express Bus – Once you’re in Rovaniemi, there is a Santa Express bus that stops at Santa Claus Village, Santapark/Arctic Treehouse Hotel, Santa’s Igloos Arctic Circle and the the Airport. See timetable here.

But Rovaniemi is just the tip of Lapland. There is so much more to explore. For instance this snowboarding video of Sanni Oksanen was sent to me from two of my American friends and is going viral because sites like TheCoolHunter reposted it. When I went last year in November, there wasn’t enough snow yet, and when we tried to chase the Northern Lights, there was no such luck. I’ll be back for you Lapland and aurora borealis!

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HelsinkiLos Angeles

Cost of Living in Helsinki vs Los Angeles

by Audrey
written by Audrey

A few weeks ago, I was lucky enough to be featured in an Ilta Sanomat article (the most read online newspaper in Finland). The article is in Finnish, so in case you’d like to read it, I’ve translated it on the LAxHEL Facebook page. The article came about because one of the journalists stumbled upon my blog through Facebook and wanted to interview me about my last blog post. It was a wonderful experience and I received a ton of positive feedback and “welcome to Finland” comments from people who read the article. I was so touched by all the kind words. I also have to mention that when I shared the story about complimenting a woman in a clothing store and she ignored me, many Finns explained to me that it was probably because she didn’t know how to take the compliment since Finns are known to be quite humble, which I totally agree with.

Almost free

Although I couldn’t quite understand all of the comments on the article since it was in Finnish (Google Translate isn’t super accurate), from what I could gather, there seemed to be quite a bit of discussion around the high taxes in Finland along with education and healthcare not really being “free” since you do incur some nominal fees. So maybe I misspoke, but compared to where I’m from, they are practically free. Our taxes in LA are also not low (I was paying 31.95%), yet it doesn’t go towards our personal healthcare or college tuition. In case you’re curious, this California tax calculator can give you an estimate of California tax rates. All of this got me thinking about what the cost of living in Helsinki vs. Los Angeles is.

It is true that Finland has one of the highest tax rates in the world, and the wages in Helsinki are not as high as in LA, but the cost of living is lower. The real question is, do you end up taking home more money, less money, or break even? In my case, my salary in Helsinki is about half of what it was in LA, yet somehow I found myself with more money left at the end of each month after all my expenses. How is that possible? Well I did some digging and I thought I would share what I discovered.

Cost of living comparison

I used this cost of living comparison website to get average salaries and expenses in Helsinki and Los Angeles. A few of the amounts were my exact personal expenses in LA (student loan, car payment, health insurance, auto insurance, and gas). Please note that everything is converted to euros to give you a better comparison and there are a few items are not an apples to apples comparison such as:

  • Student Loan – I put €0 for Helsinki because if I was a Finn and went to college in Finland, I wouldn’t have needed to pay for tuition. I spoke to a few Finns, and none of them needed to take out a student loan but mentioned that some people may take out a small bank loan for books and living expenses, but definitely not an $80,000 loan for tuition alone like I needed.
  • Transportation Costs – In LA, you pretty much need to have a car, while in Helsinki you can get away without having one, so I included my monthly car payment in LA vs. my monthly Helsinki metro pass cost. Since I don’t need to have a car in Helsinki, I also no longer have auto insurance and gas expenses.

So upon further inspection, even though I only make half of what I was making in LA, I actually have more money leftover after expenses. I also didn’t include expenses like food, but I find food costs to be pretty similar. Again, I can only speak for myself and my own situation, and I understand that this is not an exact comparison, since there are people who do own cars in Helsinki and incur those costs.

And now I’m feeling nostalgic, so here’s a few pics of my old apartment in Downtown LA and my old car, which I’ve given to my parents.

Cost of having a baby in LA vs Helsinki

Although you don’t need to pay for health insurance in Finland, several people commented in the article that they do incur some medical expenses (for things like medicine, hospital stays, etc). This got me curious about the out of pocket medical costs in LA even with health insurance. Kimmo’s big brother recently had a baby and he asked me what it cost to have a baby in Los Angeles. He shared with me that his final hospital bill came out to €440 total for the entire delivery plus 3 nights stay in their own room at the hospital for 2 adults with food.

Since I’m just a dog mom, I asked one of my best friends from LA what it cost her. She had one of the most premium insurance plans available, so other health insurance plans would not necessarily cover this much and the out of pocket costs can be much higher. In any case, with an excellent health insurance plan, this is what she had to pay out of pocket versus what the actual costs were.

Note: These costs are from 4 years ago, so they might have changed since then.

Even though you can easily look up cost of living comparisons between cities, it was really interesting to sit down and do the actual math for my own situation. It was actually very eye-opening and before moving to Helsinki, I had no concept of what it cost to live outside of LA. I always knew I could move somewhere cheaper, but I was never sure if anywhere else could live up to LA…

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Helsinki

My First Six Months Living in Helsinki

by Audrey
written by Audrey

It has been about half a year now since I’ve moved to Helsinki. It’s my first time living somewhere with actual seasons, and the leaves turning is truly a beautiful thing to see during the autumn. Although I get super homesick and I miss the LA weather, it hasn’t been as hard to adjust as I had imagined. But then again, winter hasn’t come yet, so ask me again in a couple of months.

I think a few reasons why it hasn’t been terribly hard to adjust is because the architecture of Helsinki is really modern, it’s a small city that’s easy to get to know, everything works well, the quality of life here is really high, and most people speak English, so it doesn’t feel like such a foreign country. But don’t get me wrong, it hasn’t been a walk in the park either. I miss my friends and family immensely and it took some time to make my own friends here. Also, just because people speak English, doesn’t mean anything is written or spoken in English. So let’s just say I have to rely on copying movements in gym classes and my grocery runs take extremely long, since I’m constantly using the Google translate app camera function. By the way, Google translate for Finnish – 60% of the time, it works every time.

  • Modern apartment buildings in our neighborhood
  • Leaves turning on Rambo

But in all seriousness, I feel so lucky to have the chance to live in another country and continent, actually. I’m learning so much and just trying to soak it all in and appreciate every new experience and learning. All I’ve ever known is my LA and Orange County bubble. The rest of the world is doing things differently but here’s what I’ve learned about Helsinki so far…

Top 10 Reasons I Enjoy Living in Helsinki

  1. Free Healthcare – Basic healthcare is free, and even covers dental work. Most companies also provide additional private healthcare insurance at no cost to the employee. If health is wealth, then I’m set for life here.
  2. Free Education – Meanwhile, I’m still paying for my grad school loan while Finns can get their PhD for FREE 99!
  3. So Damn Safe – People even leave their €1000+ Bugaboo strollers outside WITH the baby inside, because apparently the cold air is good for babies and can often help them sleep. But more importantly, people don’t fear their children getting kidnapped. I couldn’t even walk home alone from school, which was only a few blocks away. Here you see elementary school kids on public transportation alone, it’s wild! Oh wait, I guess that’s the opposite of wild.
  4. Public Transportation – Speaking of public transportation, there is no need to have a car in Helsinki. The public transportation here consists of trams, subways (called the Metro here), and busses. It costs €60/month for an unlimited pass, which my work paid for. So basically my transportation costs are €0, except the occasional Uber, taxi, or electric scooter. In LA with a car payment, gas, auto insurance, and tons of Ubers whenever I was having drinks, I’m sure I easily spent $1000/month just on transportation alone!
  5. 5 Weeks of Holiday (vacation) – It’s the law to get five weeks of vacation in Finland, no matter what company you work for. In California, an employer is not required to provide paid-time-off under California vacation law, although most companies provide at least 2 weeks as a job benefit. 2 weeks sounds like a joke to me now. No wonder Americans are so stressed and get burnt out easily.
  6. Work Life Balance & Benefits – The generous vacation speaks to this, but in addition, I don’t often see Finns work overtime. At the company I worked for, they paid for my cell phone which can be used for personal use as well, but it wasn’t mandatory to answer any work related emails or calls outside of work hours. Most companies also provide a lunch card, where they cover 25% of your lunch (up to €10.50) which encourages employees to go out for lunch, especially with colleagues. Lastly, most companies also provide a sports and culture benefit of up to €400/year, which can be used for gym memberships, movie tickets, concerts, etc. So far I’ve used mine for an annual museum pass (€60), rock climbing, and pilates classes.
  7. People are Smart – Everyone knows at least two languages. And the water cooler talk here is rarely about TV, the latest fashion trends, or celebrity gossip. Instead they’re about things like the “Third Industrial Revolution”. Sometimes I feel like Finns are more in tune with what’s going on politically in the US than the average American.
  8. The Library is Cool – Finland is the most literate country in the world and publishes more books per capita than any other country, except Iceland. On average, every Finn buys 4 books and borrows a dozen from the library each year. So, yup it’s definitely cool to read and hang out at the library. I’ve started reading way more and have read about 1-2 books per month since I moved here. Also, how could you not want to hang out at Oodi, our central library? Besides the beautiful architecture of the building, this library holds concerts, has music studios and instruments that you can book, an urban workshop for the DIYers like me (soldering station, laser cutter, and sewing machines included) and even digital gaming rooms. It was also voted as 2019 World’s Best New Library.
  9. Nature & Foraging – Finland has a concept called ‘Everyman’s right’. It allows everyone to roam freely in nature, eat, and pick berries and mushrooms anywhere in forests. Our fridge always has a supply of homemade berry juice, berry jelly, frozen berries & chanterelle mushrooms from Kimmo’s family forest. Also, you can camp out overnight in a tent, vehicle, or boat, as long as this causes no damage or disturbance to the landowner.
  10. Island Hopping – I love that Finland is like one big forest surrounded by the Baltic Sea. Our apartment is along a canal, and I walk Rambo by the ocean every day. There’s something so calming about just staring into the waters and feeling that ocean breeze. Finland has over 180,000 lakes and almost as many islands! I can take a 10 minute ferry or cross a bridge and be on a new island. There’s even a Dog Island for Rambo and a Zoo on an island. It’s such a nice way to get out of the city, hike in a forest, have a picnic, and even go foraging!
  • Strollers with babies inside left outside in freezing temps
  • Foraging for lingonberries and bilberries
  • Island hopping
  • Bridge to an island with a Zoo
  • Daily walk along the canal and Baltic Sea
Oodi Library

Top 5 Favorite Finnish Home Things

  1. Magic Cupboard – In every kitchen, there’s a specific drying cupboard above the sink where you put clean dishes to dry. The water drops down to the sink. Ok so it’s not magical but it’s freaking genius!
  2. Sauna – If you didn’t know, Finns invented the sauna, so it’s a big part of the culture here. We have one in our bathroom. Until I came to Finland, I always thought a sauna was basically an electrically heated wooden room. I was wrong! A real sauna should have stones (heated by a wood fire or electrically) that you throw water on to create steam. The more water you throw on the stones, the more steamy and intense it gets. I was on the fence about it at first, but now we have “Sauna Sundays” at home. There are so many benefits to the sauna. It helps you recover from an intense workout, flush out toxins, relieve stress, and get a good night’s sleep.
  3. Butt Washers – Ok, they’re not called that, I made that up. I’m actually not sure what they’re really called, but I love them, and Americans need them! No more using baby wipes or wetting toilet paper, only so they can rip into shreds in your butt as you wipe.
  4. Heating – Every time I step into our apartment, it always seems to be the perfect temperature, except on the rare occasion it gets really hot, because we don’t have AC, like most homes in Finland. Over 90% of Finnish apartments are connected to a district heating network, which is part of the rental agreement as a fixed cost. District heating supplies heat from a combined heat and power (CHP) plant directly to buildings through a network of pipes carrying hot water. This means the buildings do not need to generate their own heat on site. With CHP, Helsinki saves so much energy compared with separate property-specific heating produced by condensing electricity that it would heat up to 500,000 detached homes each year.
  5. Own Blankets – I’m a little on the fence about this one because I love snuggling and playing footsies. But… not fighting over the blanket, not waking up to the blanket being pulled off of you, and Kimmo’s favorite, being able to wrap yourself like a burrito, are reasons why this one made the list.
  • Magic Cupboard
  • Sauna in our Bathroom
  • Spot the Butt Washer
  • District Heating
  • It may look like a normal bed but…
  • Underneath are 2 separate blankets

Finnish Things I’m still Getting Used to

  • Light (too much & too little) – During the longest summer nights, the sun doesn’t go down until almost midnight. But during the winter, there might only be a couple hours of daylight. Seasonal affective disorder (SAD) is definitely a thing here, so I’m loading up on Vitamin D pills and having coffee in front of my happy (aka SAD) light. If you’ve never heard of one, these therapy lamps mimic sunlight to enhance mood, energy, sleep, and focus – but without the UV rays
  • No tipping – Since I’ve worked in the food service business, it has always been ingrained in me to tip. In Finland, and most of Europe, it’s not customary to tip, unless you get exceptional service, and even then it’s not required.
  • How small it is – Although Helsinki is the capital and biggest city in Finland, it’s still pretty small. The population is about 630k (LA is 4 million) so even though I only know a handful of people here, I still run into people all the time. To give you some context, the day I moved here, I ran into 2 people I knew during the train and tram ride from the airport to the apartment. And at that time I knew like 10 people! Back home in LA, I could meet someone, and never see them again for the rest of my life.
  • The language – Like I mentioned earlier, everything is written in Finnish. The second official language of the country is actually Swedish. So most signs are in Finnish and Swedish, which doesn’t help me either way. I started taking a Finnish course twice a week, and boy is it hard. Besides the words being ridiculously long, and there being a hundred different ways to say something, I find it confusing that there is no intonation. The language sounds pretty monotone, since your tone should always go down at the end of a sentence, even if it’s a question or has an exclamation point at the end. You can imagine how hard this is for an animated speaker like myself.
  • No small talk – Finns don’t like small talk and I actually appreciate this. Meetings tend to start and end on time since you don’t spend the first 10 minutes small talking. And if you ask a Finn how they are, be careful because they might actually tell you.
My current fall & winter morning routine with a happy light, vitamin D pills, and my Finnish language course textbook.

So that’s what I’ve learned during my first six months living here. I’m not sure I agree that Finland is the happiest country in the world (more about Finns in a future post) but it probably has the highest quality of life. Stay tuned for the next six months…

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Travel

Croatia Travel Guide

by Audrey
written by Audrey

Typically in Finland, you get 4 weeks of summer holiday (vacation) and 1 week off in winter. It’s common for businesses to shut down in July, and for Finns to take all of July off. I work for a company with international customers, so we stagger our vacations a bit. In any case, since I didn’t start my new job until close to May, I only had 1 week of holiday this year, so I wanted to make the most of it. That’s where Croatia came in.

I spent 9 days in Croatia with Kimmo. We flew into Split, then island hopped to Brač, Hvar, and Korčula, and ended in Dubrovnik. For me, it was the perfect mix of a beach and city vacation. One thing to note about the beaches in Croatia is that most of them are rocky. I managed to swim and walk around barefoot, but many people wore water shoes. Also, if you’re not renting a sunbed, be forewarned you’ll be laying your towel on rocks, and not sand. We found a couple sandy beaches in Korčula, although they were quite small. But, what the beaches lacked in sand, the Adriatic Sea made up for with the ocean. It was some of the most turquoise water I had ever seen. And it was the perfect temperature for a swim. My favorite thing to do was just float around in the ocean in complete peace. Besides the beaches, I was awe struck by the old architecture in Dubrovnik and Split. My mouth literally dropped open when I first walked into the Old City of Dubrovnik. It’s definitely a site to see, especially with the backdrop of the sea against it.

In the last several years, Croatia has become a much more popular vacation spot because of Game of Thrones and Yacht Week, which means it has also become much more expensive. It still wasn’t overly expensive, but definitely not as cheap as we were expecting. On average we spent about €100 per day for food, drinks, transportation, etc. Split and Dubrovnik are pretty good about accepting credit cards, but on the islands we mostly used cash in their local currency (Croatian Kuna HRK). Below is a guide of the things to do in Croatia, specifically Split, Brač, Hvar, Korčula, and Dubrovnik.

GETTING AROUND

  • Jadrolinja ferries to get to the islands
  • Uber in Split and Dubrovnik
  • Renting bikes or scooters are a great way to get around the islands
  • Taxi boats are good to get to nearby islands

Also, be aware of pickpocketers. We didn’t experience it, but heard about a few people who did while we were in Split and Dubrovnik.

SPLIT

We flew into Split and only stayed there for 1 night. It was enough to see the Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace, but my only regret was not staying for 1 more day to be able to see at least 1 of the national parks. Plitvice Lakes and Krka National Park are the two most well-known and from the pictures, both have awe-striking waterfalls and trails. Krka Park is smaller than Plitvice, but it’s closer to Split, and you can also swim in these lakes. If you only have time to see one, this site is a good reference to help you decide.

Hotel in Split

Villa Olea 1 – This was a no frills hotel, in the middle of Old Town. You can’t drive up to it, but it’s a short walk from the port. It had everything we needed for 1 night and a good location to see the town, yet not in a crowded area where it was too noisy.

Things to do in Split

  • Old Town & Diocletian Palace – The old stone architecture is beautiful. There are a few scenes from Game of Thrones filmed around this area as well.
  • Riva Seafront Promenade – This is where the ferries and yachts dock, but it’s a lovely promenade filled with restaurants facing the sea. The perfect place to people watch and catch the ocean breeze.

Restaurants and bars in Split

  • Villa Spiza – Hole in the wall that servers fresh, local Dalmatian food. Dalmatia is one of the four historical regions of Croatia, and all the places we went to in Croatia are part of Dalmatia.
  • Zinfandel – Even though California vineyards made the Zinfandel famous, the origins are from a Croatian grape. Zinfandel had several wine tasting options to showcase Croatian wine, along with local Dalmatian tapas, and to top it off, live music. We got the 3 tier platter for two, which was delicious, especially the hama ceviche.
  • Bokeria Kitchen & Wine – This was another great wine bar in Split that’s a little more upscale.  
  • Academia Ghetto Club – Bohemian bar where the locals go. It has an outdoor terrace and DJ playing good music.
  • Bokeria Wine & Kitchen
  • Zinfandel
  • Academia Ghetto Club

Other things to do in Split – that we did not get to do

  • Restaurants & Wine Bars: Buffet Fife, Uje Oil Bar, Konoba Matejuska, Tavern Tri Volta (Zalogajnica Dioklecijan)
  • Bars: Wine & Cheese Bar Paradox, Charlie’s Bar, To Je To, Gaga

BRAČ

We wanted to start our holiday just chilling at the beach, doing a whole lot of nothing. So, we decided to stay in Brač (pronounced Bra-ch) for 3 nights, because we heard it had the best beaches, and we wanted to stay in one hotel for the first few days before hopping around. If I could do it all over again, I would have stayed in Brač for only 1-2 nights, but this is without seeing the other parts of the island. We stayed in Bol, and didn’t venture out to Supetar, Skrip, or Vidova Gora. The island did have the most beautiful beaches (all rocky), but I found the crowd to be mostly families.

Hotel in Brač

Bluesun Hotel Elaphusa – All of the hotels on the main strip seemed to be owned by the same company, Bluesun. The hotel did include a daily breakfast buffet, which was really convenient, but it felt a little bit like a cruise ship. They had a couple restaurants, swimming pool, wellness spa, bowling alley, night club, etc. Basically, if you didn’t want to leave the hotel, you didn’t have to, which makes it really convenient for families. One feature we really enjoyed though, was the wellness spa, because they had a few different saunas, jacuzzi, and heated swimming pool. After now getting used to the Finnish sauna culture, the sauna etiquette was a bit confusing here. In Finland, it is typical for men and women to have separate public saunas, but if it’s mixed, then people typically wear swimsuits. At this spa, it was one facility for both genders, and you were not allowed to wear clothes in the saunas, which was a bit awkward for me, and I could tell the other guests were confused too.

Beaches in Brač

Zlatni Rat is one of the most famous beaches in all of Croatia, and why we decided to start our vacation there. It is beautiful, with lots of areas to lay out and swim. You can rent sunbeds and umbrellas here. It’s also convenient because there are many restaurants and bars around. We rented bikes on the other days we were there, and visited Murvica Beach and Martinica Beach, which were smaller and less crowded. There was also a nudist beach nearby called Paklina (goodbye tan lines).

Restaurants and bars in Brač

  • Stina Winery – The island of Brač is unique for its white stone (Stina), which is also why it is an interesting place to cultivate grapes. This winery had a lovely wine tasting, which included a very informative tour of the facilities and process.
  • Restaurant Borak Beach – This restaurant was owned by the same group as our hotel, but we had a table for 2 right on the beach. You just can’t get more romantic than that! The black cuttlefish risotto was delicious as well.
  • Varadero – This is a cocktail bar, that’s good for day drinking or a night out. They were playing some good house music when I went. Probably one of the few places to go out at night.
Dinner on the beach at Restaurant Borak
  • Entrance of Stina Winery
  • Stina Winery Tour
  • Stina blank wine labels

Things to do in Brač – that we did not get to do

  • Areas: Vidova Gora, Skrip, Supetar
  • Restaurants: Palute and Vinotoka

HVAR

Hvar is known as the expensive, party island, so we only booked 1 night here because we were more on a mission to relax. As soon as you arrive at the port, you can see lines of extravagant yachts, with people partying on them. This island had the most night life of all the places we went in Croatia, along with a younger crowd. Although Hvar was all those things, I actually enjoyed the beach clubs during the day, so I wouldn’t have minded staying an extra day. Oh and there’s a short hike to the Spanish Fortress which has a gorgeous view of the city.

View of Hvar from the Spanish Fortress

Hotel in Hvar

Pharos Hvar Bayhill Hotel – This was a very hip hotel with a younger crowd. There was a comic book theme, super modern amenities, but the rooms are a bit small. A breakfast buffet was also included with our stay. The hotel actually looked better than the pictures on hotels.com. I would definitely stay here again.

Beach clubs in Hvar

  • Hula Hula – Sunbeds here are 100 HRK (about €13) without service, and 200 HRK with bar service. We went earlier in the day around 11am, so it hadn’t turned into a day party yet. It was the perfect place to splurge and hang out at a beach club while getting served up. At night it turns into a wild night club that goes from 2am-6am.
  • Bonj Les Bains – This is a fancier beach club, that’s more chill than Hula Hula. It’s also a good place to get a drink and catch the sunset.
In front of our Hula Hula daybed

Restaurants and bars in Hvar

  • Giaxa – The traditional dish of Hvar is Gregada, a fish stew. This is one of the most popular places to try it. The restaurant is a bit more upscale, but the food was excellent and worth it. I loved the presentation of the food as well.
  • Odos – This was a hip restaurant with great cocktails and modern mediterranean cuisine. Good prices and also rated #1 on Trip Advisor.
  • Tri Pršuta – One of my favorite wine bars in Croatia! It’s a tiny bar, but good prices, and good wine. The son of the owner served us and he had an immense knowledge of wines. He let us try a bunch of different wines, while educating us about each of them.
  • Saffron Prawn Risotto at Giaxa
  • Gregada at Giaxa
  • Tri Pršuta Wine Bar

KORČULA

We spent 2 nights in Korčula (pronounced “core-chu-luh”) but could have stayed longer. It was our favorite island because it had some sandy beaches, wineries galore, relaxed night life, and a mixed crowd.

Hotel in Korčula

Hotel Liburna – This was our favorite hotel. We were pleasantly surprised getting a huge 2 story hotel room, with a large balcony overlooking the sea. Breakfast buffet was also included here, and had the best food.

  • Sunset view from our balcony
  • View from the hotel restaurant

Beaches in Korčula

Finally we found some sandy beaches! There are a few islands that make up Korčula, and you can take a boat taxi to hop around to them. I think the only one worth visiting is Lumbarda because that’s where most of the wineries and sandy beaches are.

  • Rocky: Banje and Zakrjan (both in Korcula Town)
  • Sandy: Vela Przina and Bilin Zal (both in Lumbarda)

Wineries and Bars in Korčula

In Korčula, you’ll find Grk, a native grape variety only cultivated on the sandy soils of Lumbarda. We learned that only around 50,000 bottles of Grk wine are produced per year in that area, with about 80% of it being sold in Croatia. So, that’s probably why we had never heard of it.

  • Bire Winery – This is the most well known winery in Korčula, and we got to try their Grk white wine and Plavac Mali red wine and rosé. Plavac Mali is a local grape of the Dalmatia region of Croatia. If you can’t make it to the wineries, many of the wine bars in Korcula Town serve Bire wine.
  • Popić Winery – This is a small family owned winery overlooking a beautiful landscape. They also served their own Grk white, Plavac Mali red wine and rosé with some light snack pairings. We really enjoyed this spot and the owner was really sweet and informative.
  • Winery Grk – Right next door to Popić, is Winery Grk. We didn’t spend too much time here because we wanted to check out Bire before it closed, but the Grk wine here was excellent.
  • Massimo Cocktail Bar – This is a bar on top of a 15th-century medieval tower. You have to climb up a ladder to get there, and your drinks come up via a pulley system from the bar downstairs. It was a bit chilly when we went, but no worries because there are blankets and a beautiful view to keep you warm. It might be a little hard getting down though when you’ve had a bit to drink.

Other things to do in Korčula – that we didn’t get to do

  • St. Mark’s Cathedral
  • Marco Polo House

DUBROVNIK

I was blown away when we first walked inside the walls of Old Town. You just can’t find any buildings that old and beautiful in the US. I love that you can find Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture all in one place.

Where to stay in Dubrovnik

Since Dubrovnik was our last stop, and we were going to be on the go, doing touristy things, we decided to skip the nice hotel, and get an Airbnb. A few friends had recommended to not stay in the Old Town because it is not accessible by car (so good luck lugging around your luggage), and can be quite noisy at night, with the old, thin walls. We found a convenient Airbnb for about €75, which was a 5 minute drive to Old Town, and close to the ferry port where we arrived.

Things to do in Dubrovnik

  • Game of Thrones Tour – We found this via Trip Advisor, and it was totally worth it! Our tour guide was a true GoT fan, and it made it all the worthwhile. You also learn some history about Dubrovnik along the way, while exploring the Old Town.
  • City Walls – I can’t believe that these defensive walls have survived since about the 14th century. Entrance to the city walls is not included in the GoT Tour, but you do get a discounted ticket from the entrance to the Red Keep/Fort Lovrijenac that is part of the tour, so if you do the GoT Tour, it might be a good idea to do this afterwards. It’s definitely worth it to walk along the walls. The views are spectacular.
  • Lukrom – This is a nature reserve island that is a 10 minute ferry from Dubrovnik. There are peacocks and rabbits roaming all around the island. There are also a few scenes from GoT filmed here, and the 1st official HBO iron throne replica is here.
  • Cable Car – We didn’t have time to do this, but heard you can see stunning views of the city from here.
  • City Walls
  • GoT Tour
  • “Shame” steps from GoT
  • GoT Site
  • GoT Site
  • Ruins in Lukrom
  • Iron Throne at Lukrom
  • Peacock in Lukrom

Restaurants and bars in Dubrovnik

  • D’Vino Wine Bar – This was our favorite wine bar in Croatia, where we also found our favorite wine, a 2014 Matusko Postup Potomje. It was rich and tasted like chocolate!
  • D’Poets Live Bar – We stumbled upon this bar, upon hearing live music and trying to escape the rain. There is a cave inside, where a live band was playing both nights we stopped by. Yes, I liked it so much, I went twice!
  • Lady Pi Pi – We went to this spot right when it opened, because space is limited, and they cook all their food on a single outdoor grill. The tuna was exceptional!
  • Buzz Bar – This is a local pub, that played great music and had decent cocktails.
  • Lady Pi Pi
  • D’Poets Live Bar

Souvenirs from Croatia

Thought I’d end this guide with some cool things we took home with us:

  • Lavendar & Olive Oil – Croatia is filled with lavendar and olives, so we had to take home some lavendar essential oil and award winning olive oil.
  • Wine – We found our favorite wine from D’Vino Wine Bar at the duty free shop in the Dubrovnik airport.
  • Game of Thrones – Had to get a t-shirt of my favorite dude, and Kimmo got a Winter is Coming mug
  • Accessories – Coral and turquoise is pretty abundant in Croatia, so I found a cute turquoise necklace, along with a basketweave bag, and a Turkish towel which packs up nice and small for taking to the beach.

Now go plan your trip to Croatia!

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Travel

Exploring Copenhagen, Denmark – The 2nd Happiest Country in the World

by Audrey
written by Audrey

When I decided to move to Finland, one of the things I was most excited about was getting to explore Europe. There are so many countries that are just a short flight or ferry away. For instance, in my past visits to Helsinki, I did a ferry ride to Estonia and cruise ship to Sweden. There’s also one that goes to St. Petersberg in Russia. In LA, you can take a ferry to Catalina island, and the only other short cruise ship would be to Baja, Mexico, which I have fond memories of!

Anyway, I had a girlfriend from back home who was staying in Brussels, so we decided to meet up in a country we’ve both never been to… Denmark, specifically Copenhagen. We are both really into art and design, so it was a no brainer. Denmark has consistently been rated the happiest country in the world, although they’ve fallen 2nd to Finland the last two years (woot woot), so I was excited to see what it was like in another Nordic country. Sidenote, I almost said Scandinavian country, which is something I’ve been confused by since I moved here. Is Finland considered Scandinavian? Apparently Sweden, Norway, and Denmark are Scandinavian and Nordic countries, while Finland and Iceland are just Nordic, but I get mixed answers when I ask a Finn. This article has been helpful with this debate in case you’re interested.

Back to Copenhagen. I absolutely adored this city! I think we got to see it at its best, as the weather was perfection and it seemed like the entire city was outside. The primary mode of transportation here is cycling, so we rented bikes for the entire 3 days we were there. The city is small enough that you can get around on bikes alone, but there’s also metro, bus, train, uber, and electric scooters. We biked the heck out of that city and for me, everywhere I looked was drool worthy. I really liked the mix of old and modern architecture surrounded by the sea and forest.  

I probably wasn’t there long enough to make an accurate conclusion, but the Danes truly did seem happy. Everywhere we went, people were laughing, hugging, and just having a good time. Whether it was laying out in the middle of a park reading a book, having a beer on a terrace, or jumping into the sea. It was intoxicating.

The Danes I met seemed to really love their city. Since I’m a bit afraid of my first winter in Finland, I asked one local what they did in the winter. She said that winter is a great time to be inside and not feel guilty about binging on Netflix, and doing all the cozy indoor things. She was talking about “Hygge” which I recently learned about from one of my friends back home ironically. Hygge encompasses a feeling of cozy contentment and well-being through enjoying the simple things in life. I loved her outlook on winter so much, that I decided to pick up this book on it. The author also wrote a book on Lykke, which is the Danish word for happiness.

Ok, enough of the happiness talk, here’s a rundown of what we saw, did, and ate. I also included a list of things we wanted to do, but didn’t get a chance to.

Things to do in Copenhagen

Designmuseum Danmark – I died and went to design heaven here. If there’s one thing the Danes are known for besides pastries, it’s their design and furniture. I just got lost in there and wanted to take home every vintage chair! They also had a Bauhaus exhibit which had a workshop that you can practice your own artistic skills in. Oh and don’t forget to stop by the gift shop. I wanted to buy everything from ceramics, books, and artwork to rings, scrunchies, and pantone water bottles. Highly highly recommended!

Nyhavn – The 17th century waterfront, canal, and entertainment district with the colorful buildings that you see in every picture of Copenhagen. It was super crowded and touristy, but still worth it to see. I wouldn’t recommend eating there.

Cisternerne – The Cisterns was a water reservoir that once contained the supply of drinking water for the Danish capital and today is an exhibition space for contemporary art. The current exhibit was by the Danish artist collective SUPERFLEX where they flooded the dripstone cave with water (don’t worry rain boots are provided) and portray how climate change has altered society drastically. This was also a must see for me. It was a bit creepy, but the most unique and interactive exhibit I’ve ever seen.  

La Banchina – This place was highly recommended by our friend who lives in Copenhagen. This is one of the city’s best spots for sunbathing and jumping in the water when it’s warm. In the winter they have a wood-fired sauna (proper Finnish style) which is perfect after a cold dip in the harbor I’m told. I’m not sure I could brave that water in the winter, I could barely get in it in the summer.

Kastrup Sea Bath – On our last day in Copenhagen, we decided to skip all the touristy spots, and just enjoy the sun. Now that I’m living in the Nordics, when there’s sun, you must soak it all in as there aren’t too many days in the year that you get good weather. This was another local recommendation. The circular structure has seating around a seawater pool. It was an architectural pearl, and the perfect place to go for a swim and hang out at the public beach.

Dandy – This was a hip bar near our apartment with a 60’s art deco Hollywood feel. We went on a Thursday night so it was pretty quiet, but they had a mean tequila and mezcal cocktail which I have been craving since I moved to Helsinki. I haven’t been able to find any good tequila or mezcal since I’ve moved here (so if any of you Finns have tips, do share!). There’s a DJ and dance floor on the weekends, and I hear it can get quite busy.

Meatpacking District (Kødbyen) – Unlike New York city, which it was modeled after, the neighborhood is still home to butcheries and slaughterhouses. This is where the cool kids hang out and is a hub for nightlife, galleries, and restaurants. We just dropped in for a drink at one of the bars, but it seemed like a bit of a younger crowd to us. There is also a grittier side of the meatpacking district where they have supervised injection sites so the locals told us just to be careful around those areas, but that nobody would bother us. All in all, I never felt unsafe anywhere in Copenhagen, which is a similar feeling I get in Helsinki.

Jægersborggade – This is an adorable street in the Nørrebro neighborhood with art galleries, organic produce shops, vintage clothes, ceramics and jewelry designers, wine bars, coffee shops and restaurants. Here you’ll find Michelin-starred restaurant Relæ, Coffee Collective (some of the best coffee in town), and the only caramel cookery in Copenhagen.

Christiania (Free town) – Christiania is a community of about 900 people that has its own rules and regulations completely independent of the Danish government. At first when you enter on Pusher street, it appears to be all about weed, but that is just a minor part of the town. Once you go deeper, you’ll see the most interesting and artistic homes. The area is also known for delicious vegan restaurants and free concerts.

Arket – I didn’t get to go to one of their main locations, but I did stop by their shop in the airport. Arket is a fashion brand owned by H&M which started in Sweden. It has a Scandinavian aesthetic and aims to provide quality and sustainable basics, with a price point more similar to Cos than H&M.

Stilleben – A cute shop that sells interior design, ceramics, glass ware, textiles, accessories and jewelry by leading Danish and foreign designers.

What to eat in Copenhagen

Det Rene Brød – First order of business was to try the most typical Danish pastry which is the Wienerbrød. Interestingly enough, this translates to “Vienna bread” because the concept was brought to Denmark by Austrian bakers. In the US, we simply call these a “Danish”, so it came as a shock that it actually came from Austria. Well wherever it came from, it is damn delicious. This bakery has several locations and a great place to try one out.  

Restaurant Koefoed – After much googling about what to eat in Copenhagen, the Smørrebrød came up as the traditional dish. It is an open-faced sandwich made typically made with a buttered rye bread and topped with meats, fish, cheese, spreads, or whatever your heart desires. Restaurant Koefoed is especially known for these, and I can testify that we picked the right spot to try these, delicious!

Conditori La Glace – The oldest confectionary in Denmark. My girlfriend and I have major sweet tooths, and this place did not disappoint. I am more into cakes and my friend was more into tarts, and both were to die for!

Sanchez – One of the things I miss most in Helsinki is good Mexican food. Since my friend also lived in California, we both were craving it. Finally, my Mexican cravings satisfied! The only disappointment was the price, as I’m used to my $1 Taco Tuesdays.

  • Tuna Tostada
  • Carnitas & Adobo Potato Tacos
  • Churro Ice Cream Sandwich
  • Octopus Ceviche

Coffee Collective – World Barista Champion and twice national champion Klaus Thomsen is behind this place. Their filtered coffee was incredible, probably the best cup of joe I’ve ever had. Not to mention the mushroom toast and Wienerbrød we had were also on point.

Torvehallerne – An indoor food market selling everything from fresh fish and meat to gourmet chocolate and exotic spices. Admittedly, we didn’t have time to buy anything or eat there, but all the smells and food gave me the feels. I would have loved to pick up a bunch of food from here and have a picnic.

Other things to do in Copenhagen (that we didn’t have time to do)

Museums
Louisiana Museum
Thorvaldsens Museum

Water Activities
Rent a Go Boat
Kalvebod Bølge

Landmarks / Streets to Walk
Superkilen
Værnedamsvej
Elmegade

Food
Leckerbaer
Reffen
Mad & Kaffe
Møller Kaffe & Køkken
Gasoline Grill
Paté Paté

Bars
Baby Baby
Jolene

Shopping
Acne Archive
Bloom & Bloom
Lot #29
Han Kjøbenhavn
I Blame Lulu
Retro Villa
Res-Res

Even though the city was small enough to bike through, I feel like I barely scratched the surface (as you can see from the list of things we didn’t get to do). I definitely want to come back. I would love for the opportunity to live in other European countries, and if the chance came up, this city would be on the list, along with Barcelona, Paris, Amsterdam and Berlin so far…

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Helsinki

Midsummer in Finland

by Audrey
written by Audrey

Midsummer, or summer solstice as Americans might know it, is celebrated by the Northern European countries to mark the longest day of the year. In Finland, the sun never fully sets that day and that Friday is considered a holiday so double awesomeness to have a 3 day weekend to fully enjoy it.

Summer Party

The week leading into Midsummer, I had my company summer party. I’ve worked for several companies in California, and we only ever had a Christmas party, so I was pretty stoked that in Helsinki, it’s pretty typical to have both a summer and winter holiday party. I asked Kimmo what the summer parties were like, and he said lots of drinking and most likely offsite activities that eventually lead to after parties. Well, he wasn’t kidding. We started the party at 10:00am and took a bus out to the middle of nowhere to do paintballing, bubble football, and inflatable sumo wrestling. Oh and did I mention beer was available immediately?

If you know me, I’m not much of a competitive sports person, but I did partake in one activity…

After the sweaty activities, the party bus took us to another venue, where a sauna, dinner, DJ, and surf simulation (think mechanical bull riding) awaited. Then as if that wasn’t enough, for those who wanted to keep partying until the morning, we had some tables reserved at Butcher’s Bar for more drinks and dancing. I’m totally down with this summer party tradition as it allowed me to talk to all the co-workers I normally don’t get to interact with and see them in a really relaxed, and informal setting. I definitely think the company party culture is much looser in Helsinki, at least at the company I work at. I dig it. Oh and if you want to see some footage from the party, my co-worker made this rad drone video.

Sauna Boat

Another pre-midsummer activity we did was renting out a sauna boat with friends. The sauna culture is already something pretty new to me, so throw that on a boat, now I’m really a fish out of water. The boat came with a captain, so no driving was required. It was pretty darn fun, but I was too much of a wussy to jump into the cold lake for a swim. The sauna was a bit smaller than we all expected, but we managed to squeeze 5 girls inside, and then the guys went after us.

Summer Cottage

For the actual Midsummer holiday, most Finns head out to their summer cottage, so if you happen to be a tourist in Helsinki during this time, you’ll probably notice the city is dead, and tons of things are closed. Luckily for us, Kimmo’s family cottage is only about an hour away from Helsinki. A lot of the Finns I’ve met in Helsinki, have to drive way further out.

Our midsummer activities included grilling (with veggies picked straight from the garden), reading, laying out in the sun, a sauna, a hot tub, and a whole lot of doing nothing, which in my opinion was the best part. There’s definitely something wonderful to being out in nature, disconnected from the city. One thing that tripped me out was how the hot tub worked. Kimmo’s Dad brought out a water pump that used water from the lake behind the cottage to fill the tub, and then we had to burn wood logs to heat it up.

When the summer first started arriving, it was weird to me how late the sun would set (I’m talking like 11pm), but I really grew to love it. Although, you do need some heavy duty blackout curtains for sleeping. The long days makes me feel like my weeknights don’t end after getting off work, and I love that. With my imminent first winter coming, the days will be opposite (almost no sun), so I’m just embracing all that summer has to offer. Here’s what I mean about the sun not setting… this is what it looked like outside the cottage around 2am. So dreamy!

Also, apparently there’s a horror movie called Midsommar that just came out. Let’s see if there’s any correlation…

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