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Lapland Wonderland: Exploring Levi & Ylläs

February 28, 2021 0 comment

The Corona Bubble in Finland and Dealing with Being Homesick

September 2, 2020 8 comments

My Favorite Restaurants in Helsinki

March 22, 2020 6 comments

What I Miss about Los Angeles

January 13, 2020 11 comments

Is Santa from Finland?

November 29, 2019 0 comment

Cost of Living in Helsinki vs Los Angeles

November 23, 2019 4 comments
Helsinki

My First Six Months Living in Helsinki

by Audrey October 29, 2019
written by Audrey

It has been about half a year now since I’ve moved to Helsinki. It’s my first time living somewhere with actual seasons, and the leaves turning is truly a beautiful thing to see during the autumn. Although I get super homesick and I miss the LA weather, it hasn’t been as hard to adjust as I had imagined. But then again, winter hasn’t come yet, so ask me again in a couple of months.

I think a few reasons why it hasn’t been terribly hard to adjust is because the architecture of Helsinki is really modern, it’s a small city that’s easy to get to know, everything works well, the quality of life here is really high, and most people speak English, so it doesn’t feel like such a foreign country. But don’t get me wrong, it hasn’t been a walk in the park either. I miss my friends and family immensely and it took some time to make my own friends here. Also, just because people speak English, doesn’t mean anything is written or spoken in English. So let’s just say I have to rely on copying movements in gym classes and my grocery runs take extremely long, since I’m constantly using the Google translate app camera function. By the way, Google translate for Finnish – 60% of the time, it works every time.

  • Modern apartment buildings in our neighborhood
  • Leaves turning on Rambo

But in all seriousness, I feel so lucky to have the chance to live in another country and continent, actually. I’m learning so much and just trying to soak it all in and appreciate every new experience and learning. All I’ve ever known is my LA and Orange County bubble. The rest of the world is doing things differently but here’s what I’ve learned about Helsinki so far…

Top 10 Reasons I Enjoy Living in Helsinki

  1. Free Healthcare – Basic healthcare is free, and even covers dental work. Most companies also provide additional private healthcare insurance at no cost to the employee. If health is wealth, then I’m set for life here.
  2. Free Education – Meanwhile, I’m still paying for my grad school loan while Finns can get their PhD for FREE 99!
  3. So Damn Safe – People even leave their €1000+ Bugaboo strollers outside WITH the baby inside, because apparently the cold air is good for babies and can often help them sleep. But more importantly, people don’t fear their children getting kidnapped. I couldn’t even walk home alone from school, which was only a few blocks away. Here you see elementary school kids on public transportation alone, it’s wild! Oh wait, I guess that’s the opposite of wild.
  4. Public Transportation – Speaking of public transportation, there is no need to have a car in Helsinki. The public transportation here consists of trams, subways (called the Metro here), and busses. It costs €60/month for an unlimited pass, which my work paid for. So basically my transportation costs are €0, except the occasional Uber, taxi, or electric scooter. In LA with a car payment, gas, auto insurance, and tons of Ubers whenever I was having drinks, I’m sure I easily spent $1000/month just on transportation alone!
  5. 5 Weeks of Holiday (vacation) – It’s the law to get five weeks of vacation in Finland, no matter what company you work for. In California, an employer is not required to provide paid-time-off under California vacation law, although most companies provide at least 2 weeks as a job benefit. 2 weeks sounds like a joke to me now. No wonder Americans are so stressed and get burnt out easily.
  6. Work Life Balance & Benefits – The generous vacation speaks to this, but in addition, I don’t often see Finns work overtime. At the company I worked for, they paid for my cell phone which can be used for personal use as well, but it wasn’t mandatory to answer any work related emails or calls outside of work hours. Most companies also provide a lunch card, where they cover 25% of your lunch (up to €10.50) which encourages employees to go out for lunch, especially with colleagues. Lastly, most companies also provide a sports and culture benefit of up to €400/year, which can be used for gym memberships, movie tickets, concerts, etc. So far I’ve used mine for an annual museum pass (€60), rock climbing, and pilates classes.
  7. People are Smart – Everyone knows at least two languages. And the water cooler talk here is rarely about TV, the latest fashion trends, or celebrity gossip. Instead they’re about things like the “Third Industrial Revolution”. Sometimes I feel like Finns are more in tune with what’s going on politically in the US than the average American.
  8. The Library is Cool – Finland is the most literate country in the world and publishes more books per capita than any other country, except Iceland. On average, every Finn buys 4 books and borrows a dozen from the library each year. So, yup it’s definitely cool to read and hang out at the library. I’ve started reading way more and have read about 1-2 books per month since I moved here. Also, how could you not want to hang out at Oodi, our central library? Besides the beautiful architecture of the building, this library holds concerts, has music studios and instruments that you can book, an urban workshop for the DIYers like me (soldering station, laser cutter, and sewing machines included) and even digital gaming rooms. It was also voted as 2019 World’s Best New Library.
  9. Nature & Foraging – Finland has a concept called ‘Everyman’s right’. It allows everyone to roam freely in nature, eat, and pick berries and mushrooms anywhere in forests. Our fridge always has a supply of homemade berry juice, berry jelly, frozen berries & chanterelle mushrooms from Kimmo’s family forest. Also, you can camp out overnight in a tent, vehicle, or boat, as long as this causes no damage or disturbance to the landowner.
  10. Island Hopping – I love that Finland is like one big forest surrounded by the Baltic Sea. Our apartment is along a canal, and I walk Rambo by the ocean every day. There’s something so calming about just staring into the waters and feeling that ocean breeze. Finland has over 180,000 lakes and almost as many islands! I can take a 10 minute ferry or cross a bridge and be on a new island. There’s even a Dog Island for Rambo and a Zoo on an island. It’s such a nice way to get out of the city, hike in a forest, have a picnic, and even go foraging!
  • Strollers with babies inside left outside in freezing temps
  • Foraging for lingonberries and bilberries
  • Island hopping
  • Bridge to an island with a Zoo
  • Daily walk along the canal and Baltic Sea
Oodi Library

Top 5 Favorite Finnish Home Things

  1. Magic Cupboard – In every kitchen, there’s a specific drying cupboard above the sink where you put clean dishes to dry. The water drops down to the sink. Ok so it’s not magical but it’s freaking genius!
  2. Sauna – If you didn’t know, Finns invented the sauna, so it’s a big part of the culture here. We have one in our bathroom. Until I came to Finland, I always thought a sauna was basically an electrically heated wooden room. I was wrong! A real sauna should have stones (heated by a wood fire or electrically) that you throw water on to create steam. The more water you throw on the stones, the more steamy and intense it gets. I was on the fence about it at first, but now we have “Sauna Sundays” at home. There are so many benefits to the sauna. It helps you recover from an intense workout, flush out toxins, relieve stress, and get a good night’s sleep.
  3. Butt Washers – Ok, they’re not called that, I made that up. I’m actually not sure what they’re really called, but I love them, and Americans need them! No more using baby wipes or wetting toilet paper, only so they can rip into shreds in your butt as you wipe.
  4. Heating – Every time I step into our apartment, it always seems to be the perfect temperature, except on the rare occasion it gets really hot, because we don’t have AC, like most homes in Finland. Over 90% of Finnish apartments are connected to a district heating network, which is part of the rental agreement as a fixed cost. District heating supplies heat from a combined heat and power (CHP) plant directly to buildings through a network of pipes carrying hot water. This means the buildings do not need to generate their own heat on site. With CHP, Helsinki saves so much energy compared with separate property-specific heating produced by condensing electricity that it would heat up to 500,000 detached homes each year.
  5. Own Blankets – I’m a little on the fence about this one because I love snuggling and playing footsies. But… not fighting over the blanket, not waking up to the blanket being pulled off of you, and Kimmo’s favorite, being able to wrap yourself like a burrito, are reasons why this one made the list.
  • Magic Cupboard
  • Sauna in our Bathroom
  • Spot the Butt Washer
  • District Heating
  • It may look like a normal bed but…
  • Underneath are 2 separate blankets

Finnish Things I’m still Getting Used to

  • Light (too much & too little) – During the longest summer nights, the sun doesn’t go down until almost midnight. But during the winter, there might only be a couple hours of daylight. Seasonal affective disorder (SAD) is definitely a thing here, so I’m loading up on Vitamin D pills and having coffee in front of my happy (aka SAD) light. If you’ve never heard of one, these therapy lamps mimic sunlight to enhance mood, energy, sleep, and focus – but without the UV rays
  • No tipping – Since I’ve worked in the food service business, it has always been ingrained in me to tip. In Finland, and most of Europe, it’s not customary to tip, unless you get exceptional service, and even then it’s not required.
  • How small it is – Although Helsinki is the capital and biggest city in Finland, it’s still pretty small. The population is about 630k (LA is 4 million) so even though I only know a handful of people here, I still run into people all the time. To give you some context, the day I moved here, I ran into 2 people I knew during the train and tram ride from the airport to the apartment. And at that time I knew like 10 people! Back home in LA, I could meet someone, and never see them again for the rest of my life.
  • The language – Like I mentioned earlier, everything is written in Finnish. The second official language of the country is actually Swedish. So most signs are in Finnish and Swedish, which doesn’t help me either way. I started taking a Finnish course twice a week, and boy is it hard. Besides the words being ridiculously long, and there being a hundred different ways to say something, I find it confusing that there is no intonation. The language sounds pretty monotone, since your tone should always go down at the end of a sentence, even if it’s a question or has an exclamation point at the end. You can imagine how hard this is for an animated speaker like myself.
  • No small talk – Finns don’t like small talk and I actually appreciate this. Meetings tend to start and end on time since you don’t spend the first 10 minutes small talking. And if you ask a Finn how they are, be careful because they might actually tell you.
My current fall & winter morning routine with a happy light, vitamin D pills, and my Finnish language course textbook.

So that’s what I’ve learned during my first six months living here. I’m not sure I agree that Finland is the happiest country in the world (more about Finns in a future post) but it probably has the highest quality of life. Stay tuned for the next six months…

October 29, 2019 22 comments
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Travel

Croatia Travel Guide

by Audrey July 23, 2019
written by Audrey

Typically in Finland, you get 4 weeks of summer holiday (vacation) and 1 week off in winter. It’s common for businesses to shut down in July, and for Finns to take all of July off. I work for a company with international customers, so we stagger our vacations a bit. In any case, since I didn’t start my new job until close to May, I only had 1 week of holiday this year, so I wanted to make the most of it. That’s where Croatia came in.

I spent 9 days in Croatia with Kimmo. We flew into Split, then island hopped to Brač, Hvar, and Korčula, and ended in Dubrovnik. For me, it was the perfect mix of a beach and city vacation. One thing to note about the beaches in Croatia is that most of them are rocky. I managed to swim and walk around barefoot, but many people wore water shoes. Also, if you’re not renting a sunbed, be forewarned you’ll be laying your towel on rocks, and not sand. We found a couple sandy beaches in Korčula, although they were quite small. But, what the beaches lacked in sand, the Adriatic Sea made up for with the ocean. It was some of the most turquoise water I had ever seen. And it was the perfect temperature for a swim. My favorite thing to do was just float around in the ocean in complete peace. Besides the beaches, I was awe struck by the old architecture in Dubrovnik and Split. My mouth literally dropped open when I first walked into the Old City of Dubrovnik. It’s definitely a site to see, especially with the backdrop of the sea against it.

In the last several years, Croatia has become a much more popular vacation spot because of Game of Thrones and Yacht Week, which means it has also become much more expensive. It still wasn’t overly expensive, but definitely not as cheap as we were expecting. On average we spent about €100 per day for food, drinks, transportation, etc. Split and Dubrovnik are pretty good about accepting credit cards, but on the islands we mostly used cash in their local currency (Croatian Kuna HRK). Below is a guide of the things to do in Croatia, specifically Split, Brač, Hvar, Korčula, and Dubrovnik.

GETTING AROUND

  • Jadrolinja ferries to get to the islands
  • Uber in Split and Dubrovnik
  • Renting bikes or scooters are a great way to get around the islands
  • Taxi boats are good to get to nearby islands

Also, be aware of pickpocketers. We didn’t experience it, but heard about a few people who did while we were in Split and Dubrovnik.

SPLIT

We flew into Split and only stayed there for 1 night. It was enough to see the Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace, but my only regret was not staying for 1 more day to be able to see at least 1 of the national parks. Plitvice Lakes and Krka National Park are the two most well-known and from the pictures, both have awe-striking waterfalls and trails. Krka Park is smaller than Plitvice, but it’s closer to Split, and you can also swim in these lakes. If you only have time to see one, this site is a good reference to help you decide.

Hotel in Split

Villa Olea 1 – This was a no frills hotel, in the middle of Old Town. You can’t drive up to it, but it’s a short walk from the port. It had everything we needed for 1 night and a good location to see the town, yet not in a crowded area where it was too noisy.

Things to do in Split

  • Old Town & Diocletian Palace – The old stone architecture is beautiful. There are a few scenes from Game of Thrones filmed around this area as well.
  • Riva Seafront Promenade – This is where the ferries and yachts dock, but it’s a lovely promenade filled with restaurants facing the sea. The perfect place to people watch and catch the ocean breeze.

Restaurants and bars in Split

  • Villa Spiza – Hole in the wall that servers fresh, local Dalmatian food. Dalmatia is one of the four historical regions of Croatia, and all the places we went to in Croatia are part of Dalmatia.
  • Zinfandel – Even though California vineyards made the Zinfandel famous, the origins are from a Croatian grape. Zinfandel had several wine tasting options to showcase Croatian wine, along with local Dalmatian tapas, and to top it off, live music. We got the 3 tier platter for two, which was delicious, especially the hama ceviche.
  • Bokeria Kitchen & Wine – This was another great wine bar in Split that’s a little more upscale.  
  • Academia Ghetto Club – Bohemian bar where the locals go. It has an outdoor terrace and DJ playing good music.
  • Bokeria Wine & Kitchen
  • Zinfandel
  • Academia Ghetto Club

Other things to do in Split – that we did not get to do

  • Restaurants & Wine Bars: Buffet Fife, Uje Oil Bar, Konoba Matejuska, Tavern Tri Volta (Zalogajnica Dioklecijan)
  • Bars: Wine & Cheese Bar Paradox, Charlie’s Bar, To Je To, Gaga

BRAČ

We wanted to start our holiday just chilling at the beach, doing a whole lot of nothing. So, we decided to stay in Brač (pronounced Bra-ch) for 3 nights, because we heard it had the best beaches, and we wanted to stay in one hotel for the first few days before hopping around. If I could do it all over again, I would have stayed in Brač for only 1-2 nights, but this is without seeing the other parts of the island. We stayed in Bol, and didn’t venture out to Supetar, Skrip, or Vidova Gora. The island did have the most beautiful beaches (all rocky), but I found the crowd to be mostly families.

Hotel in Brač

Bluesun Hotel Elaphusa – All of the hotels on the main strip seemed to be owned by the same company, Bluesun. The hotel did include a daily breakfast buffet, which was really convenient, but it felt a little bit like a cruise ship. They had a couple restaurants, swimming pool, wellness spa, bowling alley, night club, etc. Basically, if you didn’t want to leave the hotel, you didn’t have to, which makes it really convenient for families. One feature we really enjoyed though, was the wellness spa, because they had a few different saunas, jacuzzi, and heated swimming pool. After now getting used to the Finnish sauna culture, the sauna etiquette was a bit confusing here. In Finland, it is typical for men and women to have separate public saunas, but if it’s mixed, then people typically wear swimsuits. At this spa, it was one facility for both genders, and you were not allowed to wear clothes in the saunas, which was a bit awkward for me, and I could tell the other guests were confused too.

Beaches in Brač

Zlatni Rat is one of the most famous beaches in all of Croatia, and why we decided to start our vacation there. It is beautiful, with lots of areas to lay out and swim. You can rent sunbeds and umbrellas here. It’s also convenient because there are many restaurants and bars around. We rented bikes on the other days we were there, and visited Murvica Beach and Martinica Beach, which were smaller and less crowded. There was also a nudist beach nearby called Paklina (goodbye tan lines).

Restaurants and bars in Brač

  • Stina Winery – The island of Brač is unique for its white stone (Stina), which is also why it is an interesting place to cultivate grapes. This winery had a lovely wine tasting, which included a very informative tour of the facilities and process.
  • Restaurant Borak Beach – This restaurant was owned by the same group as our hotel, but we had a table for 2 right on the beach. You just can’t get more romantic than that! The black cuttlefish risotto was delicious as well.
  • Varadero – This is a cocktail bar, that’s good for day drinking or a night out. They were playing some good house music when I went. Probably one of the few places to go out at night.
Dinner on the beach at Restaurant Borak
  • Entrance of Stina Winery
  • Stina Winery Tour
  • Stina blank wine labels

Things to do in Brač – that we did not get to do

  • Areas: Vidova Gora, Skrip, Supetar
  • Restaurants: Palute and Vinotoka

HVAR

Hvar is known as the expensive, party island, so we only booked 1 night here because we were more on a mission to relax. As soon as you arrive at the port, you can see lines of extravagant yachts, with people partying on them. This island had the most night life of all the places we went in Croatia, along with a younger crowd. Although Hvar was all those things, I actually enjoyed the beach clubs during the day, so I wouldn’t have minded staying an extra day. Oh and there’s a short hike to the Spanish Fortress which has a gorgeous view of the city.

View of Hvar from the Spanish Fortress

Hotel in Hvar

Pharos Hvar Bayhill Hotel – This was a very hip hotel with a younger crowd. There was a comic book theme, super modern amenities, but the rooms are a bit small. A breakfast buffet was also included with our stay. The hotel actually looked better than the pictures on hotels.com. I would definitely stay here again.

Beach clubs in Hvar

  • Hula Hula – Sunbeds here are 100 HRK (about €13) without service, and 200 HRK with bar service. We went earlier in the day around 11am, so it hadn’t turned into a day party yet. It was the perfect place to splurge and hang out at a beach club while getting served up. At night it turns into a wild night club that goes from 2am-6am.
  • Bonj Les Bains – This is a fancier beach club, that’s more chill than Hula Hula. It’s also a good place to get a drink and catch the sunset.
In front of our Hula Hula daybed

Restaurants and bars in Hvar

  • Giaxa – The traditional dish of Hvar is Gregada, a fish stew. This is one of the most popular places to try it. The restaurant is a bit more upscale, but the food was excellent and worth it. I loved the presentation of the food as well.
  • Odos – This was a hip restaurant with great cocktails and modern mediterranean cuisine. Good prices and also rated #1 on Trip Advisor.
  • Tri Pršuta – One of my favorite wine bars in Croatia! It’s a tiny bar, but good prices, and good wine. The son of the owner served us and he had an immense knowledge of wines. He let us try a bunch of different wines, while educating us about each of them.
  • Saffron Prawn Risotto at Giaxa
  • Gregada at Giaxa
  • Tri Pršuta Wine Bar

KORČULA

We spent 2 nights in Korčula (pronounced “core-chu-luh”) but could have stayed longer. It was our favorite island because it had some sandy beaches, wineries galore, relaxed night life, and a mixed crowd.

Hotel in Korčula

Hotel Liburna – This was our favorite hotel. We were pleasantly surprised getting a huge 2 story hotel room, with a large balcony overlooking the sea. Breakfast buffet was also included here, and had the best food.

  • Sunset view from our balcony
  • View from the hotel restaurant

Beaches in Korčula

Finally we found some sandy beaches! There are a few islands that make up Korčula, and you can take a boat taxi to hop around to them. I think the only one worth visiting is Lumbarda because that’s where most of the wineries and sandy beaches are.

  • Rocky: Banje and Zakrjan (both in Korcula Town)
  • Sandy: Vela Przina and Bilin Zal (both in Lumbarda)

Wineries and Bars in Korčula

In Korčula, you’ll find Grk, a native grape variety only cultivated on the sandy soils of Lumbarda. We learned that only around 50,000 bottles of Grk wine are produced per year in that area, with about 80% of it being sold in Croatia. So, that’s probably why we had never heard of it.

  • Bire Winery – This is the most well known winery in Korčula, and we got to try their Grk white wine and Plavac Mali red wine and rosé. Plavac Mali is a local grape of the Dalmatia region of Croatia. If you can’t make it to the wineries, many of the wine bars in Korcula Town serve Bire wine.
  • Popić Winery – This is a small family owned winery overlooking a beautiful landscape. They also served their own Grk white, Plavac Mali red wine and rosé with some light snack pairings. We really enjoyed this spot and the owner was really sweet and informative.
  • Winery Grk – Right next door to Popić, is Winery Grk. We didn’t spend too much time here because we wanted to check out Bire before it closed, but the Grk wine here was excellent.
  • Massimo Cocktail Bar – This is a bar on top of a 15th-century medieval tower. You have to climb up a ladder to get there, and your drinks come up via a pulley system from the bar downstairs. It was a bit chilly when we went, but no worries because there are blankets and a beautiful view to keep you warm. It might be a little hard getting down though when you’ve had a bit to drink.

Other things to do in Korčula – that we didn’t get to do

  • St. Mark’s Cathedral
  • Marco Polo House

DUBROVNIK

I was blown away when we first walked inside the walls of Old Town. You just can’t find any buildings that old and beautiful in the US. I love that you can find Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture all in one place.

Where to stay in Dubrovnik

Since Dubrovnik was our last stop, and we were going to be on the go, doing touristy things, we decided to skip the nice hotel, and get an Airbnb. A few friends had recommended to not stay in the Old Town because it is not accessible by car (so good luck lugging around your luggage), and can be quite noisy at night, with the old, thin walls. We found a convenient Airbnb for about €75, which was a 5 minute drive to Old Town, and close to the ferry port where we arrived.

Things to do in Dubrovnik

  • Game of Thrones Tour – We found this via Trip Advisor, and it was totally worth it! Our tour guide was a true GoT fan, and it made it all the worthwhile. You also learn some history about Dubrovnik along the way, while exploring the Old Town.
  • City Walls – I can’t believe that these defensive walls have survived since about the 14th century. Entrance to the city walls is not included in the GoT Tour, but you do get a discounted ticket from the entrance to the Red Keep/Fort Lovrijenac that is part of the tour, so if you do the GoT Tour, it might be a good idea to do this afterwards. It’s definitely worth it to walk along the walls. The views are spectacular.
  • Lukrom – This is a nature reserve island that is a 10 minute ferry from Dubrovnik. There are peacocks and rabbits roaming all around the island. There are also a few scenes from GoT filmed here, and the 1st official HBO iron throne replica is here.
  • Cable Car – We didn’t have time to do this, but heard you can see stunning views of the city from here.
  • City Walls
  • GoT Tour
  • “Shame” steps from GoT
  • GoT Site
  • GoT Site
  • Ruins in Lukrom
  • Iron Throne at Lukrom
  • Peacock in Lukrom

Restaurants and bars in Dubrovnik

  • D’Vino Wine Bar – This was our favorite wine bar in Croatia, where we also found our favorite wine, a 2014 Matusko Postup Potomje. It was rich and tasted like chocolate!
  • D’Poets Live Bar – We stumbled upon this bar, upon hearing live music and trying to escape the rain. There is a cave inside, where a live band was playing both nights we stopped by. Yes, I liked it so much, I went twice!
  • Lady Pi Pi – We went to this spot right when it opened, because space is limited, and they cook all their food on a single outdoor grill. The tuna was exceptional!
  • Buzz Bar – This is a local pub, that played great music and had decent cocktails.
  • Lady Pi Pi
  • D’Poets Live Bar

Souvenirs from Croatia

Thought I’d end this guide with some cool things we took home with us:

  • Lavendar & Olive Oil – Croatia is filled with lavendar and olives, so we had to take home some lavendar essential oil and award winning olive oil.
  • Wine – We found our favorite wine from D’Vino Wine Bar at the duty free shop in the Dubrovnik airport.
  • Game of Thrones – Had to get a t-shirt of my favorite dude, and Kimmo got a Winter is Coming mug
  • Accessories – Coral and turquoise is pretty abundant in Croatia, so I found a cute turquoise necklace, along with a basketweave bag, and a Turkish towel which packs up nice and small for taking to the beach.

Now go plan your trip to Croatia!

July 23, 2019 3 comments
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Travel

Exploring Copenhagen, Denmark – The 2nd Happiest Country in the World

by Audrey July 4, 2019
written by Audrey

When I decided to move to Finland, one of the things I was most excited about was getting to explore Europe. There are so many countries that are just a short flight or ferry away. For instance, in my past visits to Helsinki, I did a ferry ride to Estonia and cruise ship to Sweden. There’s also one that goes to St. Petersberg in Russia. In LA, you can take a ferry to Catalina island, and the only other short cruise ship would be to Baja, Mexico, which I have fond memories of!

Anyway, I had a girlfriend from back home who was staying in Brussels, so we decided to meet up in a country we’ve both never been to… Denmark, specifically Copenhagen. We are both really into art and design, so it was a no brainer. Denmark has consistently been rated the happiest country in the world, although they’ve fallen 2nd to Finland the last two years (woot woot), so I was excited to see what it was like in another Nordic country. Sidenote, I almost said Scandinavian country, which is something I’ve been confused by since I moved here. Is Finland considered Scandinavian? Apparently Sweden, Norway, and Denmark are Scandinavian and Nordic countries, while Finland and Iceland are just Nordic, but I get mixed answers when I ask a Finn. This article has been helpful with this debate in case you’re interested.

Back to Copenhagen. I absolutely adored this city! I think we got to see it at its best, as the weather was perfection and it seemed like the entire city was outside. The primary mode of transportation here is cycling, so we rented bikes for the entire 3 days we were there. The city is small enough that you can get around on bikes alone, but there’s also metro, bus, train, uber, and electric scooters. We biked the heck out of that city and for me, everywhere I looked was drool worthy. I really liked the mix of old and modern architecture surrounded by the sea and forest.  

I probably wasn’t there long enough to make an accurate conclusion, but the Danes truly did seem happy. Everywhere we went, people were laughing, hugging, and just having a good time. Whether it was laying out in the middle of a park reading a book, having a beer on a terrace, or jumping into the sea. It was intoxicating.

The Danes I met seemed to really love their city. Since I’m a bit afraid of my first winter in Finland, I asked one local what they did in the winter. She said that winter is a great time to be inside and not feel guilty about binging on Netflix, and doing all the cozy indoor things. She was talking about “Hygge” which I recently learned about from one of my friends back home ironically. Hygge encompasses a feeling of cozy contentment and well-being through enjoying the simple things in life. I loved her outlook on winter so much, that I decided to pick up this book on it. The author also wrote a book on Lykke, which is the Danish word for happiness.

Ok, enough of the happiness talk, here’s a rundown of what we saw, did, and ate. I also included a list of things we wanted to do, but didn’t get a chance to.

Things to do in Copenhagen

Designmuseum Danmark – I died and went to design heaven here. If there’s one thing the Danes are known for besides pastries, it’s their design and furniture. I just got lost in there and wanted to take home every vintage chair! They also had a Bauhaus exhibit which had a workshop that you can practice your own artistic skills in. Oh and don’t forget to stop by the gift shop. I wanted to buy everything from ceramics, books, and artwork to rings, scrunchies, and pantone water bottles. Highly highly recommended!

Nyhavn – The 17th century waterfront, canal, and entertainment district with the colorful buildings that you see in every picture of Copenhagen. It was super crowded and touristy, but still worth it to see. I wouldn’t recommend eating there.

Cisternerne – The Cisterns was a water reservoir that once contained the supply of drinking water for the Danish capital and today is an exhibition space for contemporary art. The current exhibit was by the Danish artist collective SUPERFLEX where they flooded the dripstone cave with water (don’t worry rain boots are provided) and portray how climate change has altered society drastically. This was also a must see for me. It was a bit creepy, but the most unique and interactive exhibit I’ve ever seen.  

La Banchina – This place was highly recommended by our friend who lives in Copenhagen. This is one of the city’s best spots for sunbathing and jumping in the water when it’s warm. In the winter they have a wood-fired sauna (proper Finnish style) which is perfect after a cold dip in the harbor I’m told. I’m not sure I could brave that water in the winter, I could barely get in it in the summer.

Kastrup Sea Bath – On our last day in Copenhagen, we decided to skip all the touristy spots, and just enjoy the sun. Now that I’m living in the Nordics, when there’s sun, you must soak it all in as there aren’t too many days in the year that you get good weather. This was another local recommendation. The circular structure has seating around a seawater pool. It was an architectural pearl, and the perfect place to go for a swim and hang out at the public beach.

Dandy – This was a hip bar near our apartment with a 60’s art deco Hollywood feel. We went on a Thursday night so it was pretty quiet, but they had a mean tequila and mezcal cocktail which I have been craving since I moved to Helsinki. I haven’t been able to find any good tequila or mezcal since I’ve moved here (so if any of you Finns have tips, do share!). There’s a DJ and dance floor on the weekends, and I hear it can get quite busy.

Meatpacking District (Kødbyen) – Unlike New York city, which it was modeled after, the neighborhood is still home to butcheries and slaughterhouses. This is where the cool kids hang out and is a hub for nightlife, galleries, and restaurants. We just dropped in for a drink at one of the bars, but it seemed like a bit of a younger crowd to us. There is also a grittier side of the meatpacking district where they have supervised injection sites so the locals told us just to be careful around those areas, but that nobody would bother us. All in all, I never felt unsafe anywhere in Copenhagen, which is a similar feeling I get in Helsinki.

Jægersborggade – This is an adorable street in the Nørrebro neighborhood with art galleries, organic produce shops, vintage clothes, ceramics and jewelry designers, wine bars, coffee shops and restaurants. Here you’ll find Michelin-starred restaurant Relæ, Coffee Collective (some of the best coffee in town), and the only caramel cookery in Copenhagen.

Christiania (Free town) – Christiania is a community of about 900 people that has its own rules and regulations completely independent of the Danish government. At first when you enter on Pusher street, it appears to be all about weed, but that is just a minor part of the town. Once you go deeper, you’ll see the most interesting and artistic homes. The area is also known for delicious vegan restaurants and free concerts.

Arket – I didn’t get to go to one of their main locations, but I did stop by their shop in the airport. Arket is a fashion brand owned by H&M which started in Sweden. It has a Scandinavian aesthetic and aims to provide quality and sustainable basics, with a price point more similar to Cos than H&M.

Stilleben – A cute shop that sells interior design, ceramics, glass ware, textiles, accessories and jewelry by leading Danish and foreign designers.

What to eat in Copenhagen

Det Rene Brød – First order of business was to try the most typical Danish pastry which is the Wienerbrød. Interestingly enough, this translates to “Vienna bread” because the concept was brought to Denmark by Austrian bakers. In the US, we simply call these a “Danish”, so it came as a shock that it actually came from Austria. Well wherever it came from, it is damn delicious. This bakery has several locations and a great place to try one out.  

Restaurant Koefoed – After much googling about what to eat in Copenhagen, the Smørrebrød came up as the traditional dish. It is an open-faced sandwich made typically made with a buttered rye bread and topped with meats, fish, cheese, spreads, or whatever your heart desires. Restaurant Koefoed is especially known for these, and I can testify that we picked the right spot to try these, delicious!

Conditori La Glace – The oldest confectionary in Denmark. My girlfriend and I have major sweet tooths, and this place did not disappoint. I am more into cakes and my friend was more into tarts, and both were to die for!

Sanchez – One of the things I miss most in Helsinki is good Mexican food. Since my friend also lived in California, we both were craving it. Finally, my Mexican cravings satisfied! The only disappointment was the price, as I’m used to my $1 Taco Tuesdays.

  • Tuna Tostada
  • Carnitas & Adobo Potato Tacos
  • Churro Ice Cream Sandwich
  • Octopus Ceviche

Coffee Collective – World Barista Champion and twice national champion Klaus Thomsen is behind this place. Their filtered coffee was incredible, probably the best cup of joe I’ve ever had. Not to mention the mushroom toast and Wienerbrød we had were also on point.

Torvehallerne – An indoor food market selling everything from fresh fish and meat to gourmet chocolate and exotic spices. Admittedly, we didn’t have time to buy anything or eat there, but all the smells and food gave me the feels. I would have loved to pick up a bunch of food from here and have a picnic.

Other things to do in Copenhagen (that we didn’t have time to do)

Museums
Louisiana Museum
Thorvaldsens Museum

Water Activities
Rent a Go Boat
Kalvebod Bølge

Landmarks / Streets to Walk
Superkilen
Værnedamsvej
Elmegade

Food
Leckerbaer
Reffen
Mad & Kaffe
Møller Kaffe & Køkken
Gasoline Grill
Paté Paté

Bars
Baby Baby
Jolene

Shopping
Acne Archive
Bloom & Bloom
Lot #29
Han Kjøbenhavn
I Blame Lulu
Retro Villa
Res-Res

Even though the city was small enough to bike through, I feel like I barely scratched the surface (as you can see from the list of things we didn’t get to do). I definitely want to come back. I would love for the opportunity to live in other European countries, and if the chance came up, this city would be on the list, along with Barcelona, Paris, Amsterdam and Berlin so far…

July 4, 2019 0 comment
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About Me

About Me

Meet Audrey

Hi there! I'm a native Angeleno and moved to Helsinki in April 2019. LAxHEL is a blog about my journey moving to Finland, the fascinating differences between living in LA and Helsinki, and life living abroad... featuring my French bulldog, Rambo.

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